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The Hempson has quite thick varnish and you say there are a lot of cracks, could it be that the cracks are just in the varnish and not in the wood?
The harp will have several different values – insurance (for me this is replacement as new), replacement, slow sale and fast sale. In my experience the people who know are happy to discuss all of these.
Don’t the 1970s have a reputation as a low point for L&H?
If you are playing in an orchestra I believe in doing your best to make the same sound in rehearsal as you will in the concert so the conductor knows what to expect.
Often a simple way of ensuring something is in a home where it is valued is to have it go to an owner who paid for it.
Lever technology has changed quite rapidly so an older harp may be just as good as when it was made, but won’t necessarily have the latest levers on.
The other place to look for a seial number is stamped into the base – but a serial number means more once you know the maker.
If this is the harp I assume then it is merely retailed by an English company and I not a harp I like or consider an improvement on the ‘cardboard’ ones.
It depends on the car- but with most the tricks I find are to never lift the harp off the ground so you are never taking all the weight; make sure you are lifting, and lowering, from the knees – don’t try to use your back or arm muscles; and make sure you have a good grasp- for instance my base cover has a hole in the middle so I can reach in to hole the wood of the harp rather than risking lifting by the base cover which could come off.
Try going to the chemists and investigating the foot-care section – that is where most of the callus stuff lives.
