Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I e-mailed L & H on this and here is the response:
If you simply want to remove dust that is in the carving, we recommend
using a large brush such as a stencil brush that is available from our
accessory department or from our website http://www.harp.com. We would
definitely not suggest using any kind of polish or liquid cleaner on the
gold parts of the harp.
Charles Moore
Lyon & Healy
Gilding has been used in one form or another for thousands of years. Both oil and water gilding techniques have been, and still are used today. Oil gilding traditionally is used for decorative, and architectural applications for interior and exterior uses to include musical instruments. A glue formulation called size which is usually made from a linseed oil base is applied to a well prepared surface with gesso. Gesso is a highly refined plaster. The size is allowed to dry to a point where there is enough “tack” to apply the gold leaf. The time needed varies according to humidity, temp., etc. The gilder uses special tools, and techniques to work with the leaf that is extremely fragile due to it’s thinness.
Water gilding is a much more refined, and complicated technique which is typically used for musical instruments, religious art, fine furniture, and picture frames. A carefully prepared surface is given as many as a dozen coats of gesso followed by many coats of bole. Bole is a highly refined pigmented clay mixture which will lend a certain hue to the leaf due to it’s transparent quality. The bole is then polished to remove any surface imperfections, and is given a coat of size. Each gilder has hers or his “favorite recipe” according to the object being gilded, and it’s intended use. Special tools such as agate burnishers bring the surface to a highly reflective state. The gilder would usually double gild in this instance, and not apply lacquer to seal the work as this would ruin the reflective quality. Matte finished areas would, however be sealed with lacquer.
Water and extreme humidity will damage the size, and gesso on water gilding, and lift the gold. In order to repair this damage a mold needs to be made from existing relief to replace the damaged areas, and the gilding process is repeated. In my opinion, the more experience a gilder has, the better. I would ask for, and check references as well as looking at their portfolio. I would not neccessarily go for the lowest bid as with this highly skilled craft/art form, you will get what you pay for. Another area for thought comes to mind….on conservation vs. restoration and the ethics involved with both.
And to Beth, I would enjoy playing your harp as much as possible, and admire the patina your harp has achieved as a record of it’s personal history.
Tayce, I would also like to know what the term “bronzed” means too. I’ve know of ormolu which is a mixture of gold and mercury applied to bronze and brass, and then heated with the end result resembling a solid gold object. This was used mostly in 18th. century French decorative items, and furniture. Would anyone know if ormolu was used in harp ornamentation?
HOLA AMANDA! SOY YESENIA, DE COSTA RICA, ESPERO QUE
TE ACUERDES DE M?. BUSCANDO INFORMACI?N SOBRE
ARPA ME ENCONTR? EN INTERNET ESTA P?GINA, A LA CUAL
YA HAB?AN ESCRITO ALICIA Y CARLOS. ESTOY MUY
CONTENTA DE QUE EST?S AVANZANDO MUCHO EN LA
UNIVERSIDAD. ILSE ME DIJO QUE CUMPLISTES A?OS, AS?
QUE TE MANDO UN GRAN ABRAZO DESDE AC?.As far as I know, maple is almost the staple wood for harpbuilders…Lyon $ Healy and Salvi use it exclusively for their harps (just with different wood finishes) and I think all pedal harps are made from hard maple, for its strength and…well, hardness.
Hello Beth, Prehaps the Society of Gilders could be of assistance in locating a gilder in your area. They have a website at http://www.societyofgilders.org. Maybe even Lyon and Healy could make a suggestion, or contact a curator at your closest art musuem. I wouldn’t attempt a cleaning either without consulting an expert as I would be afraid to damage the gesso and bole underneath the leaf. Best of luck to you, CeCe Nelson
Hi Zen, thanks again for your answer. I own a Matrix SR-4000 chromatic tuner. It seems ok to me. I see you recommend a pick up. I don’t have one of those but I read it is a piece you can attach directly to the string so you can tune more accuratly without background sound, is that right?
Actually my question was more about levers. I was reading the piece about Julia Haninger and learned some from it. My problem is not so much tuning but it’s more a lever problem. So as you said I should probably retune a few “accidentals” according to the music. I just don’t trust the levers on my harp. I have tried it with some music I know and it was like, terrible.
SylvieJust checking in re cat problems. What if you just rubbed the lemon scented stuff that they sell to spray on furniture, etc.) on the attractive strings.
While I am here I shall add my cat story. She (Dolly, a gorgeous, long haired coonhound-type) would come out and sit at the base of the harp while I played, and as she got older and deaf she shifted to sitting on the dining room table edge, just inches away in front of the harp. Then as she declined in health she would sit on my lap and put her paw on my arm, and finally, when she was very deaf, would actually put her paw on the strings while sitting on my lap as I played. I assume she was enjoying the vibrations.I so miss her…… but she has been replaced by a Cairn and 4 puppies. They appear to have zero appreciation for my dulcit playing!Hi New Harpist,
Thanks for inquiring. Sorry it took so long to respond. Yes I got the harp. At first I found it hard to tune. Well, you have to take into consideration that I had not much experience with tuning anyway…As soon as I was finished tuning I had to start over again. I’ve been trying to keep it tuned on a regular basis and now I can practice for lets say half an hour and come back once or twice without having to retune. In other words the harp seems to be stabilizing. That’s great.
I find the bass cords extending too much, which means that if I play too hard it will buzz. Also, I do have a problem with the levers. If I read the music correctly and try to change the pitch it will sound terrible. Maybe a harp teacher will help. I still have to gather the courage to travel 5hours 1/2 on car and boat and cab with my harp to go see a harp teacher. So for now, I’m just working on getting rid of my rust (music reading, little excercises, simple songs etc…). Any progress is like a real joy.
Anyway, my thinking is: if I want a better harp, I’ve got to deserve it. Much an much practice to do, but maybe some day?…..Also, this harp was given to me, so no harp would have been worse. SylvieHi Zen,
Thanks so much for your answer, you made my day! I know I’m still “out of tune” and know so little, if nothing, but my ear tells me when it hurts. So I try to get it right. I couldn’t even play “Frere Jacques” when I started so I had to improvise. It sounds right now, but I had to put the music away. My concern is: if I play a new piece of music and my harp is not to be trusted, then what? Am I going to have to improvise and play it by ear? Taking on bad habits until the right harp comes along? Sylvie
