Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Actually Chris, I finished my harp on the inside as well as the outside. I don’t wax it inside, but it has the same danish oil finish that I applied to the outside. The harps are also covered or cased, (leather and/or canvas), when not in use. My hygrometer indicates an equal humidity inside and out. The sponge case would work as well just inside the case, I travel with the harp constantly and a room humidifier is not practical.
Michael, if you have pin slippage, it is not impossible to drill out the pin holes further to insert birch dowels and then drill them for your pins. Remember my mistake when I tried to power seat my zithers?
I will be back on
The style of the harp and the luthier’s design will establish the tension. If you plan on migrating to another style or design, you want to develop your technique on an instrument with a similar tension.
Harps are quite sensitive to the way the strings are struck and the resulting sound from a bad strike is not always pleasant, so you develop and approach and exit to the string which provides the most pleasing tone. The exit in particular is affected by string tension.
There also is a different movement of the string depending on the tension, which along with length and mass per length determines the note or frequency at which the string vibrates when struck.
As to full levers…. I am truly curious why would anyone want an E# or a B#?
OK, In addition to my lessons and health care plan, I need new tires for my 51 Willys Wagon with 999,999+ miles on it.
Now that is truly interesting Audrey…. the sound was delightful on the clip and the looks are intriguing. The price is excellent for entry level.
(could it be where two friends have found an alternative to a well worn subject? one would hope.)
10 years of daily personal lessons from Cynthia Cathcart.
And a good health care plan, she would kill me if she saw the bad habits I have developed!
First thing that comes to mind is the second resonant frequency generated in the inner string…..which will be a function of length, mass per length etc. but also will have a contributing factor from the outer string…..
Thanks!!
My problem is I love to work in my shop and between the woodwork and the 51 Willys and the classic Goldwing, my nails are continually being assaulted!
Your kerfs I would think are similar to the stave back technique. I am looking to contour more to the shoulder, an ergonomic design. As to WEST, no not difficult for your level of talent. You prespot the strips and then move quickly when the strips are saturated. They
Wood (or Wet) Epoxy Saturation Technique. You soak thin wood strips in epoxy, then tack them to a frame to dry. It allows curves that would be other wise impossible with the wood because the strips are so thin. By biasing the grain you gain exceptional strength. Long ago I built a sailing dinghy in this manner. If you do it right the framing can be totally removed after the epoxy sets.
