Home › Forums › Forum Archives › Amateur Harpists › The gestation of a harp
- This topic has 63 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 1 month ago by Liam M.
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February 17, 2009 at 2:09 pm #155130Liam MParticipant
Been gone for a bit Michael. I just looked at the photos, It looks like it is proceeding well!
February 18, 2009 at 1:58 am #155131michael-rockowitzParticipantHi to all,
Spent a good part of yesterday trying to get the edges of the soundbox level, for glueing the soundboard – they had migrated during glueing, and then I sanded some of it down – making it more uneven then I realized.
February 18, 2009 at 3:07 am #155132Liam MParticipantKeep at it Michael, you will get there.
As you work, do you ever muse how the old luthiers did it in the ancient days with no power tools, crude glues and clamps? I know I do……
February 18, 2009 at 5:49 pm #155133Audrey NickelParticipantThe old Irish harps had bodies carved out of a single piece of willow, which eliminated a lot of the need for things such as clamps, power tools and glue.
There’s a fellow in our local harper group who’s trying to make one the old fashioned way…it’s slow going!
Audrey
February 18, 2009 at 9:15 pm #155134michael-rockowitzParticipantLiam,
I’m not sure what a WEST body is.
February 19, 2009 at 11:53 pm #155135Liam MParticipantWood (or Wet) Epoxy Saturation Technique. You soak thin wood strips in epoxy, then tack them to a frame to dry. It allows curves that would be other wise impossible with the wood because the strips are so thin. By biasing the grain you gain exceptional strength. Long ago I built a sailing dinghy in this manner. If you do it right the framing can be totally removed after the epoxy sets.
February 20, 2009 at 10:28 am #155136michael-rockowitzParticipantHi Liam,
Thanks for explaining that.
February 20, 2009 at 12:49 pm #155137jennifer-buehlerMemberThey’ve discontinued it and I don’t know what the sound was like but the Triplett Nino used fiberglass for the body.
Jennifer
February 20, 2009 at 2:51 pm #155138Liam MParticipantYour kerfs I would think are similar to the stave back technique. I am looking to contour more to the shoulder, an ergonomic design. As to WEST, no not difficult for your level of talent. You prespot the strips and then move quickly when the strips are saturated. They
February 21, 2009 at 12:36 am #155139michael-rockowitzParticipantLiam, Jennifer,
It seems as though Triplett is still making the Nino with the fiberglass back.
February 21, 2009 at 2:19 pm #155140michael-rockowitzParticipantHello to all,
I just had an idea for putting my harp together.
February 21, 2009 at 2:41 pm #155141Liam MParticipantFirst thing that comes to mind is the second resonant frequency generated in the inner string…..which will be a function of length, mass per length etc. but also will have a contributing factor from the outer string…..
February 22, 2009 at 1:49 am #155142michael-rockowitzParticipantHi Liam (and everyone else),
I’ve just established that the proposal I made in #56 has at least one significant (possibly fatal) defect – the difficulty in being able to access the back of the soundboard for string changing.
February 22, 2009 at 7:39 am #155143michael-rockowitzParticipantHi to all,
I think I may have written too soon – the solution might simply be to use particularly long long-nose pliers for changing the strings, (or to use the longest I can find, and if necessary, add some extensions to the handles) and to use the side sound-holes/access ports for entry.
I was thinking that if I were to do this, the whole thing could be attached by screws, no need for glue at all between the back and the sides, or between the soundboard and the sides, since none of the stresses in this design really require glue (I think!). Possibly, though, the use of many screws might increase the risk of rattling.
February 22, 2009 at 4:18 pm #155144unknown-userParticipantchange your strings by putting the string through the top of the sound board and push enough of the string
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