Been gone for a bit Michael. I just looked at the photos, It looks like it is proceeding well!
The old Irish harps had bodies carved out of a single piece of willow, which eliminated a lot of the need for things such as clamps, power tools and glue.
There’s a fellow in our local harper group who’s trying to make one the old fashioned way…it’s slow going!
Wood (or Wet) Epoxy Saturation Technique. You soak thin wood strips in epoxy, then tack them to a frame to dry. It allows curves that would be other wise impossible with the wood because the strips are so thin. By biasing the grain you gain exceptional strength. Long ago I built a sailing dinghy in this manner. If you do it right the framing can be totally removed after the epoxy sets.
Your kerfs I would think are similar to the stave back technique. I am looking to contour more to the shoulder, an ergonomic design. As to WEST, no not difficult for your level of talent. You prespot the strips and then move quickly when the strips are saturated. They
Hi to all,
I think I may have written too soon – the solution might simply be to use particularly long long-nose pliers for changing the strings, (or to use the longest I can find, and if necessary, add some extensions to the handles) and to use the side sound-holes/access ports for entry.
I was thinking that if I were to do this, the whole thing could be attached by screws, no need for glue at all between the back and the sides, or between the soundboard and the sides, since none of the stresses in this design really require glue (I think!). Possibly, though, the use of many screws might increase the risk of rattling.
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