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I hate breaking strings. Here’s my troubleshooting checklist:
When the strings break at the knot, does one piece still contain the anchor, so it actually breaks ‘above’ the knot? This is at the soundboard? And you used abrasive cord to lightly abrade any rough spots away that could be cutting the string?
I don’t think it’s the age of the string.
You mean those round felts? I don’t know if you really need them. Why not just order them from L&H rather than wait for a technician to come to Philadelphia, plus the guys may not have them in their road kit.
Or, you can get some 100% thick wool or cotton batting, cut it into strips the width of the spring, roll it tightly to the inside diameter of the spring and stuff it in. While there, you can grease your spring if it squeaks.
I asked Mike this question and was told that the silver strings sound brighter up close, but then the question is, “Does the brightness project to the listeners?” From Eleanor’s blind test, it doesn’t appear to.
I don’t feel there is a noticeable difference, but I stack the odds in my favor with the best strings, harps, and technique I can afford. The accurancy in tuning makes a surprisng difference too. I prefer the tarnish resistant colored wires because I play in all kinds of lighting and I appreciated being able to see.
Wood turning is so wonderful to watch. Objects take shape right before your eyes.
I also have begun to learn to spin wool into yarn. I have about 9 spindles and 2 spinning wheels, 1 being electric and the other a double treadle. I haven’t decided if it’s fun yet
That is a beautiful Norwegian sweater, Judith. One of these days I hope to knit one. I’ve done some stranded work, so do knit, crochet and sew for myself, family and friends. I’ve even done some sewing for my workplace, come to think of it…and oddly enough, did some patching up of a horse blanket. Thank you for sharing your blog.
Gosh, most people like a bright sound coming from a Celtic harp. Plus, it will sound very bright because the harp is right next to your ear. (You could wear special musicians’ ear plugs.) Being that the Melusine was designed for nylon strings, you need to contact the Camac dealer you purchased the harp from, or Camac in France, and get their suggestion about moving to another gauge and/or material.
Or you could sell the Melusine and find a more mellow instrument.
I think the serial number is stamped/carved into the bottom of the base. The harp has to be tipped back to see it.
I heard the harps turned green because of the finish the factory used over the stain. My husband has refinished a couple of the ones that turned green, stripping them down to the maple, etc.
When you say “parallel to the strings,” are the cracks running along the center strip of the soundboard? It really should be looked at by a technician. I’d be very hesitant to purchase a harp with cracks in the soundboard, especially if you can see light coming through the cracks on the other side.
No, the bolt is not original equipment, and a mystery as to why it’s there. Would you be able to find out from the original owner? The gap between the base and the body indicates to me that the body base frame has blown.
If you want to flat load, it depends on the concert grand and how much room you need for your driving safety and comfort. My Salvi Diana did not fit lying flat, but it did when column loaded. The top of the column does have to be lifted up onto cup holder platform between the two front seats.
I use to carry an attache case and agree that it looks more professional. I’ve converted to a rolling laptop bag with the telescoping handle. It holds just about everything, and I can balance my bench on top of it. It helped me reduce the number of trips back and forth from the car.
