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Hi Leonard,
If you are going to replace all the strings, don’t play them in so much that the string becomes dented from the disk pins. Also, you don’t ‘have’ to change all the strings. Changing out the top three octaves is highly recommended since the tolerances are so narrow, and changing out the bass wires will improve the sound because of sympathetic vibrations.
Not being able to hear the “double pitch” of some of the upper notes makes it hard to diagnose. The string could be false. Check for dented and worn through finishes where the disk pins grip the string. Have you tried replacing the string to see if that wierd sound goes away? Also, make sure the lower octaves are in tune with that note. You’ll be surprised how a note will sound out of tune because a lower octave of the same note is really the one out of tune.
This is new news to me, but I’ll pass it along. The harp is theoretically an enharmonic instrument, but in reality it is not an enharmonic instrument.
All the best,
Barbara
Hi Ann,
From my own experience, a harp has to be regulated before it leaves the factory. It would be otherwise unplayable.
Then, with the amount of jostling and bumping, temperature and humidity changes, the regulation, which is all ready being stressed, becomes further stressed. Maybe not enough to break something or have the harp develop buzzes, but enough that the harp could be somewhat out of tune. Having the harp re-regulated after it arrives in a showroom would seem to be a decision the dealer would make depending upon the condition the instrument arrived in, and later, something to be negotiated during a sale. I do believe, though, that the best time to have that second regulation is when the harp is in its permanent home.
I thought Leonard had come to the conclusion that his harp was in desperate need of intonation work and was venting about how the support wasn’t coming from the dealer. Not knowing what agreement was made regarding regulations, warranties and/or guarantees between buyer and seller, I can’t offer a response. So, perhaps two issues exist: getting the harp to play in tune and expectation management.
All the best,
Barbara
I can certainly understand and sympathize with your tuning problems. Playing an out of tune instrument is in no way enjoyable. Having sensitive ears is both a blessing and a curse, if you know what i mean.
In defense of the harp (not the shop) throughout the instrument’s life, but perhaps (I’m guessing here) most especially in the first year), the instrument goes through a lot of changes because the wood is being bowed and torqued by the pressure of the strings. It has to settle in and become stable, get a nice belly and develop its voice. The mechanism may have been perfectly set up at the factory, but all the movement the harp has undergone will throw off the first regulation it received. That’s why some manufacturers will throw in a complimentary regulation within the first year after purchase of a new instrument.
You haven’t said how many years ago you purchased the harp, how old it is now, or if you’ve changed the strings and/or pedal felts from the time of purchase. All of the above plays a factor in how accurate the half steps will be.
Even so, it does sound like you need to have your harp professionally regulated. A few unsolicited suggestions to get the most out of your regulation: change all your strings right before the regulation and have them stabilized so that they hold their pitch (usually two weeks ahead with frequent tuning) and play your harp, in different keys, before the tech leaves so that you are satisfied with the intonation. Get a good tuner for your harp instead of matching pitches with your keyboard, and always tune in Cb with the pedals in flat position.
Oh…I assumed you already owned a pedal harp and wanted to add pickups.
Camac makes electro-acoustic harps in the finish of your choice:
http://www.camac-harps.com/camac-harps-eng/accueil.html
I don’t know if Lyon and Healy or Salvi currently makes an electro-acoustic harp, though I do remembering hearing an electric harp made by Lyon and Healy.
In my opinion, it’s probably not necessary to have pickups for each string. My own harp had pickups installed every other string as a proof of concept and there is no degradation in sound for the strings without a pickup.
Start here with Dusty Strings:
I didn’t know L&H made a stand to match the Style 30, so can’t help you there.
Here’s a link to a guy who makes custom music stands. His wife is a professional harpist, so understands the special needs we have.
You’re welcome, Sherry. Glad you were able to get the right string in place quickly and you were able to practice successfully to your, and your teacher’s, satisfaction.
Edith, mkae sure the vise grip isn’t rotating around the rod, and you have the “needle nose” part running as close to parallel to the rod as possible (more teeth on the rod). It can be difficult to unscrew the rod; they can feel like they are locked in place so it’s kind of like breaking a seal. Don’t go gorilla though – you still need to be aware of what is happening with the tool in your hands. If you can’t get it to budge, then having your plumber or a trusted guy friend help you out would be the next best thing – someone familiar with mechanical stuff. Best of luck to you. Reward yourself, and any helpers, with a beverage of choice and chocolates.
Check out this article written by Mike Lewis (my DH): http://www.harptech.com/Articles/RodSnaps/RodSnaps.html
Is it not coming out from the top of the harp? Are you using needle nose vise grips? Highly recommended to grip the rod with enough power to unscrew it from the action coupling.
Sherry, “4th space E” doesn’t make sense – strings are identified by the octave they lie in. Middle C is “4th octave C.” The 4th octave consists of the F below middle C to the E above middle C. 3rd octave is the F – E above 4th octave, etc.
If you can identify the octave the E lies in, then the correct diameter string can be recommended.
I’ve installed Loveland and Truitt levers, and while they aren’t difficult to install, they can be somewhat fiddly and you will need lots of time and patience. I’d recommend a hand drill rather than an electric, plus the other specialized drivers, if any. Also, you’ll need a good tuner to know exactly where to place the lever, and then to finally regulate it. I find it easier to work on the harp when it’s laying on a padded table. The screws are tiny, so be careful you don’t cross thread when you screw them in. It’s no fun when that happens.
The lever makers might be able to send installation instructions that might help you decide before taking the plunge. Otherwise, I second Barbara’s recommendation on getting one lever and giving it a try. Levers are sized to correspond to string diameter and vibrating length, which means you’ll need a string chart from the harpmaker. You also have to be sure there’s enough wood below the bridge pin to accomodate a lever at the very highest notes.
Anyway, I spoke before doing exhaustive research on the demographics pertaining to the ratio of male to female harpists during the latter 1800’s.
I was thinking professional male harpists, but I can’t put my finger on my 1899 catalog at the moment to view all the women sitting and standing, poised at their harps. Perhaps the numbers appeal to men and the pictures to women
.I know what you mean by wanting the action plates and discs shiny and new looking again, but as Carl has already stated, the action pretty much has to be taken apart to do the job properly. And its a big job that entails removing all the strings, disconnecting the pedal rods from the action, dropping the action off of the neck, unscrewing all the discs, stationary and adjustable nuts, all the back plate screws and finally all the screws that hold the action plates in place. Then everything has to be put back in place, the action zeroed out and then the harp regulated. It’s a big, expensive job.
I’m waiting to have my action plates and discs done when I have my action reriveted. I believe mosts harps have their ‘hardware’ polished up then because everything has to come apart anyway for the reriveting.
Barbara
Maybe because when Lyon and Healy began making harps, most harpists were men. Wurlitzer, I believe, used letters to designate models. Seems that tools and machines used primarily by men are identified by numbers, i.e., Boeing 747. But then again, Singer sewing machine models were given numbers, i.e., 201, 301, etc. Could have been a fashion thing too. Maybe the trend right now is to give products a name.
