[barbara-low]

Congratulations. How very exciting for you.

One thing I learned late in my pedal harp life was to be sure to tune your harp with pedals in the flat position. In other words, you’ll be tuning to the key of Cb major. This will help in intonation, and in preserving your strings and disks. If you have to adjust the pitch while in natural or sharp, it’s better to pedal to flat, adjust the string, then pedal back to natural or sharp to check the pitch.

[barbara-low]

I understand that the new Peterson stobes with a flip cover are really good and an improvement over previous models. If your local music store has one and you can get it demonstrated, all the better. (The’s a small learning curve with these.)

[barbara-low]

You can also pluck closer to the soundboard to get the string to “speak” differently so that your tuner will pick it up.

[barbara-low]

It’s better not to tune with the disks engaged while tuning your wires since you are cutting into the pins – the strings are really abrasive and the pins are gripping them pretty strongly. What you can do is tune in flats and when you get to 7th oct. D & C , set your pedals to natural.

It is hard to hear the lower strings. I use the octave above as a reference and then tune the lower string starting out flat, bringing it up to the pitch. If I’ve gone sharp, I bring the string flat again and start over.

If that isn’t working for me, I play a 3 note descending sequence like G, F, E (in flat) and try to match it an octave lower. Sometimes hearing the note in context with others helps.

My Peterson virtual strobe will pick up the lowest strings when I use the suction cup pick up that came with mine. Since it doesn’t stick to the harp very long before falling off, I found I could get good contact by placing the pick up between the floor and the base of the harp in the area between the 2 back feet. My rug works well in holding it in place. I don’t often tilt the harp back to get to the lowest strings, so don’t know how that would effect the contact point.

[barbara-low]

Tony, I thought you were using a virtual strobe. Has it helped in your ear training so much that you don’t have to use it anymore?

[barbara-low]

This topic has already been discussed elsewhere in the forum, here:
http://www.harpcolumn.com/forum/message-view?message%5fid=30328
and here:
http://www.harpcolumn.com/forum/message-view?message%5fid=280169

[barbara-low]

Let’s assume your harp and playing technique are perfect.

What kind of tuner are you using while employing your tuning technique?

[barbara-low]

Yes, thanks Sam for sharing your knowledge on the Washburns and adding in the Clarks and Fishers too.

[barbara-low]

Thanks, Carl. Hope Sam sees this.

[barbara-low]

Just saw this today. AudioScore Professional claims to be able to receive input via microphone. There’s a free demo; only available for Windows.
Not affiliated, yada, yada.

[barbara-low]

This is a difficult situation even if you are within your rights as your neighbors seem to have decided they don’t want to hear harp music. Hopefully you will be able to come to a happy resolution.
First find out what the rules are regarding noise for your building, and be sure to adhere to any time restrictions.
Weaving felt through the strings as Catherine suggested would help muffle the sound. You can try thicker fabric, like socks, to muffle the strings even more, You’ll have to weave through all your lower and middle strings – push the fabric down towards the soundboard. I’m not sure how much a rug might help in dampening the sound, but it’s worth a try.

[barbara-low]

You may also wish to read and save previously published articles from the Harp Column written by Mike Lewis at his website here

http://harptech.com/4Articles/Articles.html

The articles cover how things work on a harp (though not Camacs), and how to’s for replacing pedal rods, disks, strings, strange noises coming from your harp, etc.

[barbara-low]

To add to my previous post: I haven’t tried to adjust a Camac disk – I’ve only tried to worked on my Lyon and Healy and Salvi.

[barbara-low]

Jerusha,

I had heard that too. I think the Camacs are more user friendly in that 90% of the regulation can be taken care of by the owner, but those disks still need tweaking now and then. I suppose if the owner is brave enough, they could tackle those disks too — I’ve adjusted disks in the past, but it’s truly an art. I’d call in a professional.

[barbara-low]

Jerusha,

Wurlitzers are pretty much like other harps. They should be regulated by a professional if you want the best possible regulation. Also, Camacs do need regulations too. The owner is able to make overmotion corrections, but disk tweaking is again best left to professionals.

Barbara

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