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If you are putting in larger bridge pins do you really need to plug the holes before redrilling them?
My tuning pins are marked with nail varnish – chips off eventually and would come off easily enough if I ever didn’t want it, but also looks discrete.
I find it rather disconcerting to play the electric harp models which don’t have a soundboard as my playing technique touches the right wrist to the soundboard as a point of reference.
I have played Erards with silk core wires (and like them, but the way they roll of the fingers is startling at first), but not a modern concert harp – I would be interested in how your experiment turns out.
My harp playing posture rests the harp entirely on my knees, and not the shoulder, so if you can sit up straight and hold your arms out I assume you can play the harp.
There are many harpists who play folk music with classical technique, but I am not sure how prevalent that is on your side of the pond.
Yes you can learn – and if you put a lot of determined work in you can expect fast progress.
For classical sound and music I would suggest you look at 34 strings (or at least 30+), full levers so you can play in different keys, medium or higher tension strings, and I would suggest you seriously investigate gut strings. 34 gut strings and full levers is a very standard harp in the UK.
I would advise looking out for a rental harp so you have something under your fingers while you decide what you want.
