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I remember eagerly anticipating the 100th anniversary model harp (1989) but being disappointed. I saw only a photo but it was not what I expected or hoped. Wonder if anyone bought it.
Pedal harps (and some larger lever harps, too) have rear feet that support the weight of the harp when you pull it back onto your shoulder to play. The wooden feet have metal brackets (called shoes) on the bottom which are attached with screws. These brackets have a hard rubber insert to keep the harp from slipping. Eventually the rubber can wear down (if you play on rough surfaces like concrete sidewalks) or bits can break off. You can remove the metal shoe and replace the rubber insert. It’s an easy fix and the rubber usually lasts for years.
Yes, that was my 17, built in 1979, which I sold a couple years ago. Great sound but I just wasn’t using it and it deserved a good home, which it now has with two harpists!
See if you could set up a lesson either with your teacher or another one via skype to get some feedback on exactly what you’re doing and any recommended changes.
Several years ago I bought a used Troubadour III and had my favorite harp tech change out the levers. We chose Loveland levers because they were the most affordable and work very well. He ordered the levers (he knew how many of each size would be needed) and I paid for the levers and the labor, which included regulating the harp afterward. I had already replaced and tuned the strings so they’d hold their pitch for the regulation. The 36 levers and labor came to between $700 and $800 dollars, and this was a few years ago. You can price levers and get a starting idea of what those will cost. I didn’t ask him to fill in the old holes and refinish the harp; the old lever holes aren’t that noticeable. It’s definitely worth it to get a pro to put them on (they don’t go in exactly the same place as the old levers) and regulate the harp. Then you’ll have a decent instrument for years to come.
Another reason is that the fiberglass trunks can be “punched,” then pop back out so you don’t see the damage until you open the trunk. My experience was that haulers ignore the warnings about not lifting the trunk by the handles (they aren’t intended to support the entire weight), so the handles come off, and a roller came off. Couldn’t find anyone who would repair it. Also, over time (and these fiberglass trunks are all old now), the foam padding blocks disintegrate into a gooey, sticky mess because they were made from petroleum products that degrade. The wooden trunks are heavy but sturdy. Definitely the way to go.
Natural maple ages over the years into a lovely gold color (has nothing to do with humidity). As mentioned above, it also shows fewer scratches and dings. When the harp is new, the natural maple is kind of pale, so decide if you would like that. Here is a photo of a natural maple at about age 32.
You can buy a shipping box from Lyon & Healy or you can maybe buy a used harp trunk from some harpist who’d love to get rid of something that takes up a lot of space. Just don’t buy the fiberglass kind; get the wooden trunk. Don’t buy a new trunk; too expensive.
Fascinating article. Reminds me of a book I enjoyed: “Nothing But the Best: The Struggle for Perfection at The Julliard School” by (harpist) Judith Kogan.
Don’t let your cat play with or chew on harp strings. They’re not digestible and could kill kitty if she swallows a piece of them.
If I can’t or don’t want to play a job, I try to refer the client to someone who can meet his or her needs. The only time I don’t is when it sounds like a situation (or client!) I wouldn’t wish on anyone!
Try the harp in aother room to be sure it’s the harp and not some other object that’s buzzing. Check all the screws to see if any are loose (don’t overtighten, just check for obvious looseness). Could it be the stationary nut? Could even try changing the wire. Buzzes can be real mysteries. Sometimes it’s a change in the weather. Harps do adjust some in their first year. That’s why many companies offer a free first regulation.
Might want to speak to the folks at Virginia Harp Center on how their harps are shipped. You can buy a shipping carton from Lyon & Healy.
I haven’t sat down and actually tried it for this excerpt but is there any way to rewrite some of this enharmonically to eliminate some pedal changes? If this section isn’t terribly exposed, can a note here or there be omitted to simplify the pedals?
