nylon

[carl-swanson]

Bernhard- Thank you so much for that post. I’ve decided to respond to you on this in a private email, which you should have by now.

[bernhard-schmidt]

Carl,

I got it…..huuuuuhhhhh.

[unknown-user]

Bernhard, Thank you for your thoughtful input. I will leave my strings as is. I am told that my prelude has a great sound, so I will not tamper with

[bernhard-schmidt]

Cynthia,

wery well decision not to to change the strings as a must.
Leave your self time and watch discussions….a change comes when it comes.

Spelling my name…I thought it was french language.

Best regards

[unknown-user]

I would like to have your chart also,

[Dwyn .]

The best string gauge/tension calculator I know of is Arto’s New String Calculator at http://www.cs.helsinki.fi/u/wikla/mus/NewScalc/

[unknown-user]

I was interested to read that you felt confident enough in the nylgut to put them on your Grecian. It never occurred to me to try that. I have an 1890 L&H single action that still has it’s original soundboard intact. My L&H is played everyday. I dearly love it. But I do agree with you-visibility of the gut strings is an issue.

Who is still selling nylgut?

[unknown-user]

Bernhard,

In an earlier post, you mentioned that Tynex is going to be 10% thicker than gut at a given vibrating length and tension. Fluorcarbon will be 7% thinner than gut. What happens to this relationship when you get into nylon core with a nylon wrap, for example? Does that percentage change?

I may be getting off the subject a little here, but I’m curious about how to calculate bass wires. In other words, if I have a wrapped steel core bass wire and I want to change to fiber core wrapped bass. How do I know how much thicker the fiber has to be ?

What I’m fooling with is a harp of modern manufacture. But the wood it was built from was birdseye maple that was submerged on the bottom of Lake Superior for 111 years. The wood was dried for two years and then I had it made into a harp. But, what I’ve found over the years I’ve had the harp is that it’s got so much sustain-so much ring- it’s almost uncontrollable. So I’m fooling with re-stringing the bottom 2 1/2 octaves to try and tame it just a little bit.

[barbara-low]

Thank you for posting the links to the string gauge/tension calculators. It was interesting putting in data and watching tensions change.

[Dwyn .]

You can order Nylgut strings from http://www.aquilausa.com/

[bernhard-schmidt]

Nylon core with nylon wrap change the relation.
Important

[unknown-user]

Since Pirastro does not have complete sets, would a medium-gauge d substitute for a heavy-gauge e, and likewise g for a? But then, they have no fs, so maybe it is pointless to revert to them. I have a few left myself. It is very irritating that they would not make these, even one batch to have them on hand, and they did not indicate to me if I should try to order from them directly or not. I don’t think the dealers here will handle a special order, and I think they should be more communicative with us. How big of a problem could it be for them to make one batch every year or three so they are available to those who need them? Do they know that some harps require thicker strings in order to regulate the intervals so they are in tune?

Thanks for your assistance. It’s not very helpful to know the thicker dimensions if no-one will make them.

[Tacye]

Saul,
If you have a chart with the thicknesses of the heavy gauge you like, and one of the medium gauge you can get (and light gauge if you can get it) you cross compare to match thicknesses so your heavy D may be closest to a medium E while for a heavy F you may want a light G or maybe a medium G.

[unknown-user]

I don’t have a chart yet. I have not heard or played Savarez strings on a harp like mine yet, and was not won over by them on a Venus or Wurlitzer, but the harps were not enough like mine for comparison. It would help if they were the same thickness and tension while tuning to pitch.

[bernhard-schmidt]

Hallo Cyntia,

I hope you still

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