Home › Forums › Coffee Break › My ‘dream’ harp – or is it a harp mare?
- This topic has 45 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 9 months ago by
deb-l.
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October 16, 2010 at 9:35 pm #107027
michael-rockowitz
ParticipantI’ve also struggled with craigslist harps.
October 17, 2010 at 12:21 am #107028Karen Johns
ParticipantExactly what I meant Barbara. That does look like a big split.
October 17, 2010 at 12:24 am #107029deb-l
ParticipantMichael, thank you very much for your thoughts.
October 17, 2010 at 12:29 am #107030Karen Johns
ParticipantWood glue might be an easy fix here. If you can squirt a good layer in between the split and clamp it overnight, you might be in luck for a while longer. It is worth a try. And it is the most cost-efficient method that I would use myself if I were to fortify the neck of this harp. Where there is a will, there is a way…
Karen
October 17, 2010 at 12:50 am #107031deb-l
Participantthat’s a good idea Karen.
October 17, 2010 at 1:16 am #107032barbara-brundage
ParticipantI’d give Mr. Pratt a call and see if he has anything to suggest, too.
October 17, 2010 at 1:38 am #107033jennifer-buehler
MemberI had to have a similar fix on my Serenade (the poor thing has been knocked around a lot).
October 17, 2010 at 2:10 am #107034barbara-low
ParticipantYes, structural epoxy would be my of choice to bond the wood together.
October 17, 2010 at 2:35 am #107035barbara-low
ParticipantThe knee block takes a lot of stress and a crack threre would be of concern. It should be looked at by someone who is familiar with structural repairs.
I’m pretty sure the block of wood under the column is supposed to be there and is not a repair.
Before you start stringing the harp with your new strings, be sure they will be long enough for your Pratt. Lever harps have different vibrating lengths and it’s no fun to find out your new string isn’t going to be long enough.
The gap between the knee block and body will probably lessen when the harp is fully strung, and I’m glad you took the pressure off the strings that are currently on the harp. It’s a good idea not to stress the board unevenly. If there’s any bellying, it will appear when all the strings are on and pulled to pitch.
PS: There are arms in the mechanism of a pedal harp, but none on a lever harp. I think the “arm” you are referring to is called the neck. The neck is the curvy part where the tuning pins are.
October 17, 2010 at 3:18 am #107036barbara-brundage
ParticipantBasic parts of the harp:
October 17, 2010 at 4:05 am #107037deb-l
Participantthanks Jenn, that’s hopeful!
Barb and Barbara, thanks for explaining the different parts of the harp.
October 17, 2010 at 5:31 pm #107038deb-l
Participantthanks for telling me the type of epoxy to use, I went to hardware stores but they didn’t have it, found it online, ConServ 600 STRUCTURAL EPOXY REPAIR.
October 17, 2010 at 5:36 pm #107039barbara-brundage
ParticipantDeb, I really, really, really wouldn’t do this without talking to someone first.
October 17, 2010 at 7:15 pm #107040deb-l
Participantthanks Barb, I am planning on talking to Mr Pratt and the tech at Harp Connection Monday.
October 18, 2010 at 3:32 pm #107041deb-l
ParticipantI spoke to Mr Pratt and he had a chance to look at the pictures.
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