harp came without tuning key

[Audrey Nickel]

The biggest problem with the Paki’s is they’re a crapshoot.

[Liam M]

And here you have my now dear friend Audrey whom I have come to like quite a bit. She’s right, the Paki’s can be a crapshoot. I was lucky I guess in that while mine was used, it was well cared for and I am afraid I am more of an engineer then a musician, so I promptly took it apart and put it back together!

Sound wise, Mike has done some amazing work with a resonator box on one and I have played with the stringing quite a bit.

[Audrey Nickel]

Hi Kim,

The issue isn’t “slipped levers.”

[unknown-user]

Hi Audrey!

It’s a pleasure to make your cyber-acquaintance. Thanks for the input.
Hmm…sounds like If I’m going to pursue this, I’m going to get REALLY GOOD at trouble-shooting.

[Karen Johns]

Well, I have a student who bought one of these harps used, and I can relate to the low quality materials. She showed it to me and I pointed out the significant crack running up the eyelets, pretty much the length of the whole soundboard. It appeared to me as if they used pressboard for the soundboard itself. I’ve never seen anything like it. Couldn’t identify the sharping levers either- big, bulky metal things.

[Liam M]

Karen,

I keep looking at Musicmakers and seriously investigated their Limerick in wire when I first decided to go to wire. I became very cautious when I saw that their dimensions were the same for wire as nylon. The physics simply tell me this should not be done and I backed away.

I would be very interested to know if anyone has successfully built and used a wire strung Limerick.

[Karen Johns]

I have, and it plays beautifully! I chose the walnut wood in my kit, and I have not had any problems with any part of the construction. Sounds just like bells and has a BIG voice and sustain.

[Liam M]

Thanks Karen!!

[Karen Johns]

My Limerick is all steel strings, with wound ones at the bass. The soundboard is glued into the grooves. This harp was very easy to construct, easier than the Voyageur. However, I did choose walnut wood, which is a bear to sand. But the wonderful swirl patterns and sheen of the wood was well worth it. I will try to post some pics if you are interested.

[Karen Johns]

Also, the sustain of these steel strings is ENORMOUS. It even blows away my hammered dulcimer in that quality. I attribute this to the soundboard. My Voyageur, which is nylon, gut, and wound steel strung, also has great sustain. My only gripe about the strings is having to color the F’s and C’s. I use a paint marker, but it still wears off and I wind up with blue and red fingertips. Plus, if you paint the lowest wound string (an F) it dulls the ringing tone somewhat.

[Liam M]

Would love to see your pictures. Walnut is a hard wood, I winder which is harder? Cherry is also quite tough, I have carved both.

I don’t paint my strings. I use blue and red sharpie markers and I just color the ends, about 3cm or so. Like you, the colored fingers drove me nuts. I already get enough looks because of my nails, having them red & blue makes it worse.

You have sold me, I will be going all steel for sure.

[Karen Johns]

I will try and post you some pics soon, on a separate thread. They have sound samples for the wire strung Limerick on Musicmaker’s. Glad to help!

[unknown-user]

Thank you all for all the help on finding the right tuning key for my daughter’s harp.

[Liam M]

You’re welcome, Merry Christmas

[Author]

Posts