Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
The Backyard harp has 22 strings, the lowest being a G below middle C.
I agree with Biagio that a 27 string Harpsicle, preferably with levers (and then called a ‘sharpsicle’, ‘flatsicle’ or’fullsicle’) would be a great alternative to start one’s harp journey.
An even better alternative, I think would be a 26 string Ravenna.
Both harps have a full octave below middle C and this makes a lot more music to be played without having to be creative to play the dots.
Many moons ago, I did have a lever floor harp in an appartment where I could hear the radio and tv and the loud quarreling of my neighbours. No one ever complained about any noise, though I am sure they must have heard me, as a floor harp does create contact noise.
Regarding volume, there are large differences between harps. Smaller harps may produce less volume, but this is not always the case. E.g, the Camac Bardic 27 strings has a great sound and rather large volume, especially for its small size, but it’s way too large for one’s lap.
Standard lever harps have 34 strings or more. The Salvi Juno 25 https://www.salviharps.com/harp/juno-25/ is suitable for playing on one’s lap. The European edition goes only to E below middle C, but there seems to be a US edition going all the way to C below middle C. There’s also a Salvi Juno with 27 strings, but they are too large for the lap.
There’s a 24 string County Kerry harp that may fit on one’s lap.Though floor harps do create a bit of contact noise, they are much easier to handle than (large) lap harps. I don’t know where you live (e.g. in Europe, the US or Australia, but there are a few small lap harps that actually can sit on laps, but most of them are too large.
You can play from very softly to very loudly on a harp, partly depending on what you wish, your playing technique and the harp itself.
There are also electrically amplified harps. Some of them are rather quiet when you use them when they are not plugged in.
What kind of music would you like to play on the harp? Would you like to take it with you in bus or train? Do you want a warm and full sound? Or do you prefer a clear and intimate sound?
You mention the Pixie harp. When you mean the 19 string Roosebeck harp, I’m afraid this is a Pakistani harp. Just google and you will understand why lots of people are less than enthousiast about most Pakistani harps.
When you need a harp to be rather quiet as well as rather cheap, you may consider a 22 string Fireside harp of Backyard music at: http://www.backyardmusic.com/Harps.html It’s soundbox is made of corrugated card board, but listen to some youtube clips. It may be a great and cheap way to start your harp journey. You could even order it as a ‘apartment- friendly folk harp kit” on http://www.backyardmusic.com/Harps/no-mess-fireside-folk-harp-kit.html
Tanya, you may like Sylvia Woods’ 50 Christmas Carols for All Harps.
All these harps have an easy (as well as an intermediate (called ‘advanced’) version.
I’ve got several harpbooks for the festive season, but this one contains lots of popular christmas songs that are rather easy to play.What about helping her to figure out simple songs like ‘Twinkle, twinkle, little star’? With just the right index finger and trying to use that finger in a harp appropriate way? Perhaps doubling with the left right finger playing the same tune an octave lower?
Yes, which double is indeed a matter of price, preference and availability.
From Rees I only heard their budget harpsicles and one grandsicle. Probably not comparable to their upper range.Another builder of a range of double harps is Blevins, but according to their website they don’t accept new orders at the moment.
I read the two threads in which Jennifer is searching for information on a double harp and when I read it well,
* it will be her very first harp,
* she wants it to sound round and warm,
* she doesn’t like the sound of the highest strings,
* she’s thinking about a harp of about 2000 dollars
* she lives in Nevada (I wonder whether one needs a lot of precautions in order to prevent a harp from cracking because of the possible very dry air and large changes between temperature at daytime and at night; when this would be me, I would be tempted to look at a Dusty Ravenna (unfortunately only available as a one row harp) before any searching further, as I guess it may need no or less precautions than most solid wood harps. On the other hand, if the harp stays air conditioned, this would not be relevant.Edit: additionally, as you want to sing while playing the harp, a stand harp may be easier than a lap harp.
Apart from all the details which may complicate one’s choice of a harp, I would say, just go for the kind of harp that sounds and feels right for you.
Though a double harp is much easier transportable than a single row harp with the same amount of strings and gives lots of interesting possibilities, you may miss the sound of the lower strings.
You ask: “Do people actually PLAY the tiny higher notes? My husband’s ears & my own, are at issue.”
Well, I understand what you mean as my ears are very sensible to the sound of the highest strings. If you hate those strings, you may think again before deciding for a double strung harp.If I were to buy a double strung harp, it would at least need to have a full octave below middle C. As far as I remember the Stoney End Brittany goes only to the G below middle C. Stoney End does make a bit larger double harps (like the Anne and the Lorraine). Personally, I would be tempted to have a look at the Dusty String FH26 double strung harp.
But when your ears long for great sounding low bass tones, or low bass tones spontaneously resonating with the higher strings you play, you may like to compare the sound of little double strung harps with single row harps and find out what you like best. When you try these harps out, also think of the ergonomic aspects of playing. A stand harp is easier to play than most lap harps.
The point is: what is most important for you? If it’s only the easy transportability of the harp, you may think of one of the compact and/or light weight 34 (or perhaps 31) strung harps. If you do like the added possibilities of the double harp, you may still like to go for the double strung route (perhaps with a full octave below middle C).
Agree with Biagio. As to sound samples, try to hear samples which are made in the same space. The acoustics of a space can make quite a lot of difference to the sound of a harp.
A few weeks ago, I had to (temporarily) remove the curtains of my living room and put some furniture elsewhere. The influence on the sound of my harp was remarkable: it was significantly more lively than is normally the case.Hi Jennifer, as to harps with a warm tone, you may prefer walnut or cherry. Mahogany is somewhere in the middle of the spectrum between warm and bright, and maple is the brightest of the woods. There are more kinds of woods, all having their special sounds and you may like to research what you like in sound and looks.
As to ’rounder’ tones, though wood does make a bit of a difference, the way the harp is built, is even more important. To begin with, I get the impression that the larger the sound box, the richer the tone. Also, the sound ideal of the harp builder does make quite a difference: does he prefer hearing ground tones with few harmonices, or does he want ground tones with a lot of harmonic?
And then, every single piece of wood is unique.
Shortly, there is so much that goes into the sound of a harp that you really want to try before you buy.I love Sylvia Woods’ Music Theory and Arranging for the Folk Harp. It’s easy to understand and there are lots and lots of tunes to directly apply what you have just learnt.
If I was to start the harp now, I would begin with Pamela Bruner’s Play the Harp beautifully, Vol. I. No need to do music theory before you start the harp. Learn them together.
Edit: as you are thinking of buying a double harp, there may be other harp books more suitable for you to start with than the ones I mentioned above.
In addition to my post above: this link: https://leverharp.wordpress.com/composers-arrangers-for-the-lever-harp/ may lead to inspirational examples of composers for the lever harp too.
I haven’t got a clue, but maybe this little book contains some helpful information for you: https://www.harp.com/product/pocket-guide-harp-composing/
Thanks, Kathy. This makes sense, though my (old) 38 string Camac lever harp weight almost 20 kilo and for me, a better sounding harp would be nicer than an easier transportable harp.
Kathy, do you think Jakez meant that the new framework would be used on Camac higher-end pedal harps or on all Camac higher-end harps (so also on the higher-end lever harps)?
I haven’t got personal experience with them, but as you find the Camac classic tension much too hard, maybe the Camac English gauge gut strings would suit you better.
