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Tacye
ParticipantFor my shoulders (which are obviously different to yours) a smaller harp makes no difference. Better posture and technique made a huge difference!
Are you actually taking any of the harp’s weight on your shoulder? Have you considered taking the harp to a physiotherapist/pilates/alexander technique person to work on seating height, posture, muscle use and all that sort of thing?
Tacye
ParticipantI can’t guess a likely maker – the blades and soundboard pegs make me think it isn’t very new- before 1980 maybe.
Tacye
ParticipantIt is a Macfall style gut strung Irish harp. The style has been made since the turn of the last century.
Tacye
ParticipantTo get a sound I would describe as richer/warmer I would choose a harp with gut strings (more expensive) and often higher tension (which you don’t want). Are you thinking of having two harps? You might find keeping the Eve for portability and choosing a larger harp by sound would suit you well.
Tacye
ParticipantThe EMS is made of rosewood in Pakistan (once the old forums are transfered across you will be able to read plenty of opinions on these) and only resembles a gothic in general outline – not at all in playing. Have you considered something slightly larger, but still light such as a Smartwood harp or Ravenna?
Tacye
ParticipantOut of curiosity, Sylvia, do you know any harps which have needed repairs because of the humidity, or lack thereof, they have been exposed to? I do (and such damage is specifically not covered by my insurance) which makes me want to take some easy precutions, when it isn’t too inconvenient. Bowls of water on the heater don’t add to my electric bills. Actually keeping the heating off in winter can be good for the harps as it is the heating which lowers the relative humidity.
On the other hand my harps exist to be played and I can’t think that I have ever not done something I wanted to because of concerns about the instrument. I have a fair accumulation of dents, veneer cracks and the like and let the sun fall on my pedal harp through the window which is also non-ideal.
I guess my philisophy is that it is better to know what the issues may be and make an informed decision.
Tacye
ParticipantI advocate getting a hygrometer to measure the relative humidity in the air – and record max/min so you know what is going on overnight. If you live somewhere dry you may want to humidify sometimes (in wither with the heat on is one time it gets dry in my flat). If you live somewhere wet you may want to dehumidify sometimes. But there is no point guessing when a cheap gadget will tell you what humidity you have to work with.
Tacye
ParticipantHave you looked at conductor’s stands?
Tacye
ParticipantI would be interested in more than a list of names – would you recommend any of them?
Tacye
ParticipantAre you sure you need to send the whole harp?
Tacye
ParticipantYou can get harps refinished and undingified…
Tacye
ParticipantYou can add an extra practice day by practicing before school instead of after, or vice versa.
Tacye
ParticipantI am surprised no-one has yet mentioned gettting a competent assessment of the condition of the older harp. If you are not confident to judge the mechanical condition, potential problems and tempermentalness of an instrument you are considering buying then call in your favourite harp mechanic or someone else whose knowledge and judgement you trust. It may cost you, but is surely worth it for the chance of a “knock your socks off” sound.
October 17, 2012 at 5:37 pm in reply to: how is celtic technique different from the regular technique? #155027Tacye
ParticipantLighter strung harps are easier to play really fast and are more likely to have the sound you probably associate with celtic music.
Tacye
ParticipantI was taught low, but not as low as pdlt.
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