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Lynn, with respect, where would you play any cadenza in this composition? I have the Durand edition, including all the orchestra parts as well, and there is no space in the whole work where the orchestra is silent and the harp plays alone enough measures to call those passages by the composer a cadenza. So in my view, the Morceau is a gem by itself and complete without any formal cadenza.
Clinton, since my stand and cello are at a student’s home I cannot measure the stand interior. After measuring the bottom of your harp as it is now, you could call Shar and ask the interior dimensions. Their stand was not intended for use while a musician is playing. It seems to me that the sides of the stand might prevent your using lower strings if you set your harp inside it, whether tilted or not. Perhaps a modification of the stand would work, or a box-like base under your present harp would work; I am not smart to figure out that adaptation. Dusty Strings makes 34-string harps, in their Seattle workshop. Ray Mooers, the owner, is very knowledgeable and might know the perfect answer. The number is (206) 634-1662. If you were to call and ask for a toll-free number and after hanging up the phone, a more lengthy call on that new number would not be billed to you. Do you think you may wish a harp some day with 36 strings,(a C string at each end?) There are many models of those made these days and they might suit your height comfortably, sound more resonant because of larger sound chamber instead of adding anything, and finally,,they all stand alone safely without needing any extra stand..It bears thinking about, instead of some costly adaptation. Best wishes to you!
Clinton, Your box you are using now is fine in theory, because it is hollow so your harp will have more resonance than any 4 legs would have. However, I see several ideas to consider.
If you want something more elegant than your box, with the same color wood as the harp, have an experienced instrument maker make you one after careful measurement to allow for your height when sitting, and arms outstretched to the middle area of the harp strings. The harp might be able to attach to the box by two small devices at the sides. You might opt for small wood strips on top of the box so that the harp is confined between strategically placed strips while you are playing. If you wish to leave the harp standing alone when thus modified, it would not be safe unless part of that box-base extends outward or has extensions like four flat “feet” and covers more floor area. To play with the bottom part of harp or box on wood floor instead of any rug, will certainly give you more tone but there might be some compromise needed. Talk to wooden instrument makers, and even investigate stands already made to receive instruments like bowed strings, which certainly could not be stood on end without the wooden, velvet-lined rectangular ones available for violins, violas, cellos, and basses when they are at rest. Shar at http://www.sharmusic.com or 1-800 287,7427 large catalog of 143 pages carries those, and in my free print copy(fall-winter 2011) I see a picture on page 82 of “classic hardwood cello stand” at $149. I have one, for a cello, and cover the instrument with a clear plastic cover (from dry-cleaning a shirt or jacket) against dust, but it can still be seen, and always ready for immediate playing rather than locked in a cello case. Perhaps others will post here with better ideas!In some countries Associated Boards or string instrument associations have a few experienced teachers form a committee to sort good teaching and performance material by “grades” so that a beginner of any age would likely use Grade 1 lists for awhile, and at the teacher’s discretion, would gradually use Grade 2 lists and proceed possibly as far as material in Grade 7 and 8 if the student can play virtuoso works of difficulty, or wishes to teach.. The lists may change slightly over the years, when a new “syllabus”, would be brought up to date. The American String Teachers Association. syllabus of 1997, the last one I have seen, puts all Dussek Sonatas in grades 2 and also in grade 4, without any other qualification. More exacting are those of Associated Boards of Australia and of the Royal Schools of Music (used in the U.K. and Canada). Those syllabi list the Dussek sonata No. 2 in F as Grade 4, the same level as Angelus by Renie, and the Sonata No. 1 in C minor as Grade 7, the same level as the Pescetti Sonata in C..
A serious harp student who would enjoy having the harp for future livelihood, would
do well to purchase one or more of these graded lists of time-tested classics, which nowadays also include some popular and jazz titles (The Pink Panther by Mancini for example) and try to master the harp level by level, using the collective judgment of the very experienced teachers who graded the music.Susan, agreeing with Heather, above, Venus harps are fine. I used to have another brand of harp, made in 1929, and when a 1990 Venus Encore (46 strings with bottom C but lacking the high OOG) came available from its first owner and was lighter weight to transport as well as having newer technology, and a lovely warm tone and a good price, I wanted a change, for all those reasons. I will keep this harp indefinitely.
Katie, if you don’t sew yourself. or haven’t a sewing machine, I would suggest going to a fabric store where not only clothing fabrics but also upholstery and foam and other heavier fabrics are sold. Ask the clerks there about names of people they know who are skilled in using such items. Perhaps even one of the clerks does this! It’s helpful if you can carry one of your small harps into the store when you make those inquiries. Also leave your business card because brides shopping there for dress and veil fabrics, often want harp music on their special day. Another perk in such a store (in my large city) is the “Christmas in July” event, where customers can have a “workshop” on the premises where they learn how to use items sold in the store to make tree “skirts”, fancy Christmas stockings, and practical gifts of all kinds. I have brought a small harp to play carols as background music to such an event; you could do this too!
Vivian, to amend my information about harpist Tegan Peemoeller, she has moved to a location near Stanley Park in Vancouver.She will be out of the country, on a harp tour in Australia, leaving July 30 for almost a month, but the same contact information in my previous post is valid.
Fred, go to http://www.morleyharps.co.uk. Ask them that question and if possible, send them a photo or two and other relevant information.Their company began in 1817. Nylon was invented in 1935. Someone at Morley Harps should be able to date your harp.
To answer Ian’s question above, distances between octaves on full sized harps vary on the two I have, manufactured by two different companies. Measuring from middle C upward is exactly 4 inches to the next (3rd octave) C string, on both harps. Then continuing upward to the very top string(OOG) each successive octave became slightly smaller. From middle C downward to the bottom string (7th C) the octaves became successively wider, and this is because wire strings have a wider vibration when plucked strongly and would brush against a neighboring string if not correctly given more room to vibrate. I would be interested in hearing if others would chime in and have different answers, or concur with mine. A harp technician would have detailed information.
If you have a printed copy of the “circle of fifths” diagram, draw the harp “pedal diagram” symbol that pedal harpists know, next to all of the names of key signatures on that paper, beginning with middle C at the top and working your way down. Until you have your own or a rented pedal harp, those floor exercises you mentioned are also good, Try making seven banana-shaped pieces of cardboard (from empty cereal boxes or whatever you have), labeling each with a large letter name (C and F in red and black) and place them on the floor where your feet will go on real pedals eventually. As you practice studies or pieces that have a few accidentals within the music, say out loud the pedal change required, such as “B flat”, “G sharp,” ” D natural” and so on, as your foot moves onto the correct cardboard. These visual, physical, and aural clues will give your brain an advantage when you begin to use a harp with pedals more regularly.
Stephanie, I remember reading, several years ago, that Paul Baker of Los Angeles had it installed in his harp.. He’s in the AHS Directory, on the same page as you!
Look at some of the collections of arrangements from the classics, published by Barbara Brundage. These are for lever harp.
Yes, your comment about using the fourth finger might be easier for your short fingers. Also, you can certainly finger those arpeggios differently, because of your short fingers, unless you find out from the jury that will examine you, that you must not do this. Hands are so different, I would be dismayed if those fingerings were “cast in stone” for everyone. Out in the world as you will enjoy playing many arpeggios without restricting the fingering, we all can adapt and use our own special fingering. We can do part of a long arpeggio with help of the other hand, sometimes grouping two or three fingers, not always four. Those suggestions by others on this page are all good.
In the past, some benches with four removable legs had screw bolts that went into a hole that had no metal lining to receive the bolt; simply a hole in the wood with no screw thread. This kind of construction meant that over time the screw worked loose. Check whether your connection is metal into metal, more long lasting.
Without a teacher in your area, you might enjoy using a book for new harpists that has a DVD to go with it. That way, you can read what to do, and hear and see a good harpist playing what is on the page, if you have a DVD player. You can repeat those parts often, hoping to play as well as the recording sounds. You learn good habits from watching the harpist. Two harpists who have made such books and recordings are Phyllis Schlomovitz: Beginning Harp Books 1 and 2; and Pamela Bruner: Play the Harp Beautifully, Books 1,2,and 3. There may be more of these teaching aids available, and perhaps someone will add a post here soon with more information. Tell us what area you are in, and how many strings your harp has, so more help will be available for you here.
