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catherine-rogers
ParticipantSo Janet, you have three harps by the same maker and the tuning keys are not interchangeable?
catherine-rogers
ParticipantAll tuning keys for one brand should be consistent but they are not identical between brands, just as the tuning pins they fit are not the same from manufacturer to manufacturer.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantIf you ever have a chance to visit a harp conference or harp store that carries Camacs, get some of the long handled tuning keys and try them on the Camac harps. Tuning keys are notorious for loose fit; chances are you will find one that will fit the slightly large Camac tuning pins. That’s what I did.
You could even contact someplace like Virginia Harp Center or Atlanta Harp Center (they carry many brands of harp) and ask them to try some for you. If one fits, they can send it to you.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantThat’s a book I’d be interested in reading!
catherine-rogers
ParticipantSounds like you’re describing an old string gauge, which are no longer sold but can sometimes be found on ebay, etc. I have one if you’d like to see it. Very interesting to compare new wires to old when you’re changing them. Mine is marked 1911, which I take to be the year.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantFearghal, is your Vauxhaull Agila a right-hand drive? That would make a difference.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantSounds like the lever is not making firm contact with the string. The lever or the string post (or both) may need adjusting. If there’s any chance you could get a harp technician to check it out, that would be your best bet. A good regulation would probably fix the problem, especially if you’re not comfortable doing adjustments yourself. Meantime, you can try putting a little bandage tape or a tiny piece of gaffers tape or duct tape on the end of the lever to build it up only where it touches the string.
My experience with those metal levers (the larger, thick, gold-colored ones, not the small brass ones on Troubadours I and II) is that they were a composite metal and brittle. Several broke so that there was not enough to grasp to move the lever. Replacements were not available so we finally had all the levers replaced with Loveland levers, the most practical and affordable fix at the time.
You should consider getting Dave Kolacny’s book “Trouble-Shooting Your Lever Harp,” which addresses most problems with many brands of lever harp. It’s available from Vanderbilt Music, among others.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantAssuming you have the original levers on it, are the levers metal or plastic? I have seen both on Troubadour III harps.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantI pulled that item off another harpist chat list and that is all the information that was there. I suggest using the phone number. I don’t know the lady myself.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantBarbara, what was the bride’s response when you called to remind her of the clause? Was recorded music acceptable to her? I’ve had some clients who feel they’re also paying for the atmosphere the harp lends and don’t want to pay what I’d charge to bring a harp and play if they end up getting something they think a DJ (or their ipod) could do.
October 29, 2009 at 7:27 pm in reply to: what do we know about Lyon and Healy 15 style harps? #75421catherine-rogers
ParticipantI have two old color brochures from Lyon and Healy from the 70’s. They are identical except for the specs on the models. In one brochure the 15 is 69 inches high and weighs 65 1/2 pounds. In the other it is 71 inches high and weighs 76 lbs. Go figure. Wish the brochures had dates on them.
In those same brochures the 23 is listed at 71 1/2 inches tall at 78 lbs. and then 74 inches tall and 81 lbs.
The current specs on an 85 semigrand are 68 3/4 inches tall and 77 lbs.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantIf you can see that a string is starting to fray, especially at the top or bottom, go ahead and change it if you can. Otherwise it will continue to drop in pitch while you’re playing as more strands break, and it will probably break while you are playing; then the music will be interrupted and you don’t want that to happen.
If you must change a string “on the job,” tune it a bit sharp and keep checking it between each piece to retune (especially true for guts and nylons). That’s why you always have a complete set of strings with you: in case of emergency.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantSince you have a definite budget, talk to your teacher about finding a good, used harp. You can get more for your money as long as you’re careful to buy a harp in good condition that has been examined by a reputable harp technician so you will know it doesn’t need any major, costly repairs. Check the CPO list on the Lyon & Healy website and the used harps on this website, too. When deciding on size of harp, consider your height now, the fact that you may grow taller, and your possible potential height based on your family. A good semi-grand should last you a lifetime, but it’s hard to practice or play on something that’s way too big for you if you’re petite (I speak from personal experience!). Remember that once you buy a harp, you’re not stuck with it the rest of your life if things change. You can re-sell it and work toward another that’s right for you, even if it takes a while to get there. Lots of harpists do.
catherine-rogers
ParticipantCheck out this thread:
http://www.harpcolumn.com/forum/message-view?message_id=17767
catherine-rogers
ParticipantYes, it comes strung, but they will have been loosened for shipping, so you’ll have to tune it frequently for a few days until they hold their pitch. It comes with a tuning key and cover, warranty card which you should fill out and return, and sometimes they also send a book of music (Milligan’s Fun From the FIrst). Enjoy!
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