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Jap, I don’t see why not, there is certainly enough wood.
I would first ask whether you intend to do the work yourself? If you do, read Rick Kemper’s remarks on levers under “building the lever harp” on his website http://www.sligoharps.com/
You will note that Camacs require special tools and techniques to mount them as compared to Lovelands and Truitts. Rick does not discuss Rees but those are mounted in the same way as Truitts.
Camacs have become quite popular, but I question whether the effort is justified for someone who will do the installation themselves. I do not hear any less distortion compared with Truitts, nor much less compared to Lovelands, if those are installed correctly.
Carl and Wil have given excellent advice. That crack, if it is the only defect, is not serious although it should be repaired (and for a minor sum). I would echo Carl’s advice re: your teacher’s opinion.
I would not worry too much about the levers…if the price is right. As a beginner you will not be playing many accidentals, if any, for a while and if you love it otherwise, they can be replaced with new ones later. Not sure I like the range, though.
That said, I consider it unwise for anyone to buy an old harp if they do not understand harp construction; or at least have someone who does look it over.
There are any number of reasonably priced new harps that will last many years. A professional might not use them to fill a concert hall, but they will be just fine, perhaps later on as a second gigging harp.
I do not know any experienced harpist who has only one instrument. Some of us, not particularly experienced, have several anyway LOL.
Thank you Balfour, but I might add a few things:
First, he or someone must remove the old board, keeping the string rib intact as a template for the new one. This is most easily done with a rotary tool. Then the raw box edges must be planed flat.
Second, he must analyze the string design to determine the tension. Only then would he be ready to make the new board.
He could go with a laminate or if he prefers he could order a custom spruce or cedar board from Rick Kemper (Sligo Harps). That would cost somewhere between $200 and $350 depending on whether it is veneered or not and whether he wanted Rick to glue on inner and outer ribs as well.
A luthier would probably charge the same as Rick for the board and perhaps another $500+ for the labor.
Given the age, I would do as Carl suggested i.e. play it until it fails and then decide. Putting on a new laminate board and analyzing the string design himself would of course be educational (strings might run up to $300 or more BTW) and he would probably want to replace the levers as well – another $500.
Adding it all up, better to just buy another harp if/when the board fails.
Biagio
I agree Balfour old buddy. In the earlier years composite boards (loosely called “plywood”) made with two thin outer layers and a thicker inner one were not acoustically nor structurally very good. One can still find them on some smaller older harps; most larger ones failed a long time ago. Then some bright sparks discovered the acoustic possibilities of high strength laminates more often used in light airplane and racing yacht construction.
A board of this sort chosen for harps usually has five cross-grain laminations per 3mm (1/8″) thickness, making them very strong and flexible; splitting is very rare. When such a board fails it will usually be at the glue lines on the harp body if the maker has exceeded the glue’s shear strength. A board of this sort will have acoustic properties more similar to the hardwood boards found on a wire strung harp and will not experience the tone that develops over time with spruce, cedar etc. On the other hand, they do not shrink and swell much if at all with changes in humidity and cost a good deal less.
Savvy makers also double taper them as they would a solid wood board. The main detraction in my experience is in the treble where the strings can sound “tinny” because they are so hard and dense that thin strings cannot move the board as much. This may be overcome by making the board wider than usual and increasing tension somewhat. Lower down, some resonance and overtones may be lacking compared (again) to spruce.
I know one famous harper who plays a Dusty FH36 (spruce and mahogany board) indoors and a Magical Strings Oran Mor (laminate) for outdoor concerts. People with better ears than mine might tell the difference; what I mostly notice is that the Oran Mor has greater volume and a richer bass. Since the Oran Mor uses the same strings as the FH36 I attribute that to the wider SB, somewhat deeper box, and the care that the maker took in shaping the board contours.
Biagio
Wow, that must be an old Troub! Even with modern laminate boards they are double tapered (that is if the luthier knows what he/she is doing).
I just this winter replaced a laminate board with spruce; the only issue was shaping the base and sides to the new board’s contours. Much more volume and resonance now!
I agree in general Carl, although it seems to me unlikely that the crack follows all the way through a plywood board. There are typically anywhere from five to 8 cross veneered layers in such a board. If such a board is no longer structurally sound, it most likely would be failing along the inner rib; I don’t see any evidence of that.
Whatever: if it needs to be replaced – again with a “ply” board – the only difficulty a luthier would have to deal with would be carefully removing the old board and dr3essing the liner surfaces. For a harp of that tension a new aircraft grade laminate board would cost about $170 from Aircraft Spruce and Supply.
Labor, however, could easily run to double or triple that amount. Hence, I’m with Carl. But I’d also say, if in doubt don’t rely on our advice based just on two pictures; take it to a professional harp maker for inspection and an estimate.
Biagio
Judging from the picture it appears to be only on the thin surface veneer. If that is the case there is no cause for concern; nevertheless you would be wise to have it examined by a professional.
If it is merely a surface veneer crack it can be repaired with a thin CVA glue such as Hot Shot. If you wish to try this yourself, first lower the string tension.
Sometimes a crack that is visible on the surface may be hidden on the interior if, for example, it passes beneath an internal rib. Be safe and take it to a pro.
Replacing an entire sound board is not particularly difficult in theory but it can be quite expensive. I have seen some repaired using a thin fiberglass internal patch without removing the board. Purists with excellent hearing would decry this approach but most in an audience would not notice.
Biagio
First question would be: what part of the lever is broken? If just the cam, try Kolacny Music.
I noticed that Musicmakers has started to use Camac levers. They are usually pretty helpful, although they may not wish to sell just one lever. If they did, you will also have to purchase the appropriate tools.
I’m aware that many excellent players these days prefer Camacs but if you intend to maintain your harp yourself either buy a maintenance kit for Camacs (Thormahlen Harps sells one such) or choose a lever type that is easier to adjust without special, hard to find tools.
Going off topic: if one is looking to begin the harp I think there are a few questions one should ask before trying to decide on what to get:
-Will they learn from a teacher or on their own?
-How much are they willing to spend?
-Have they researched the options and cost of components (strings, levers etc.)?
-Do they understand what goes into making a good harp?If the answer to any of these questions is “No” they have some research and thinking to do before plunking down a couple of thousand dollars.
Biagio
You are very welcome Hallie. I should also mention that Robinson’s offers plans for the original McFall design. I don’t know if WIlliam based his design off Robinsons’ but it seems likely that he did.
Best,
BiagioThe Raven is made by Rick Kemper, who is widely respected among professional harp makers. His Luchair is very popular among Celtic style players. The Raven uses fluorocarbon strings which some love while others prefer gut. Since Rick until recently was a professional engineer he has not advertised, relying on word of mouth, as Rees does.
While I have not played any of his harps I have had excellent experiences with him when ordering custom sound boxes and sound boards, or in consulting on vintage harp repair. I would absolutely trust him so if you like the Raven, by all means go for it.
Biagio
I suggest you contact one of these string makers: Robinson’s Harp Shop or Markwood Heavenly Strings. They both keep a huge catalogue of different model specs and it might be faster than playing phone tag with a maker. Especially since many harp makers do not make their own strings in the fist place, haha.
Cheers,
Biagio>Do harpmakers routinely have discounts once or twice a year generally? Or is it fairly rare?<
I would not say they have “regular” sales: it depends on the demand and each one’s particular circumstances. In this environment those who have high production may wish to decrease inventory; smaller shops may not.
Naturally one would wish to start out getting the “perfect harp” but in my experience there is no such beast. I’d bet a sizeable chunk of change that if you asked 100 experienced players how many stayed with only their first harp the answer would not be statistically different from zero. The greater challenge is learning how to play, especially if there is no teacher available!
Some people swear by a particular model, some by a different one but aside from rather gross considerations (concert or folk tension, this lever or another type, tall harp or shorter, price limitations) IMO beginners spend far too much time looking for perfection rather than researching what makes a well made harp. So I would start there, after setting an upper limit on what to spend (assuming that a rental is not possible).
The Dusty Strings Ravenna 34 is an excellent harp within your price range; many people buy that when first starting and teachers like it for a student rental.
https://manufacturing.dustystrings.com/harps/browse-models/ravenna-34If you are minimally handy with basic tools you might consider buying a harp kit from Musicmakers which is currently offering very attractive packages. These are excellent harps; the main difference is the sound board – aircraft laminate versus spruce or cedar – and the fact that you must mount the levers yourself, which is not difficult.
Biagio
Ditto Charles’ comments and I would also ask: since shipping adds to the cost have you considered any of the following? Dusty Strings FH36, Thormahlen Swan, Sligo Raven, Magical Strings Concert Oran Mor? These are all excellent US made harps of varying cost and tone.
Best wishes,
BiagioHere is a story in reverse. I sold my Dusty Strings FH26 to a priest who before her ordination had been a concert (pedal) harpist. She had never played a lever harp before but after getting it she only played her L&H for major services, arranging, or her own pleasure, in the sacristy where it was usually stored.
Lisa told me once that she was glad she had the pedal instrument training but was thrilled to have something portable. She often used the FH26 for services rather than lugging out the L&H.
I’d say if you can afford a pedal harp, by all means go for it.
Happy harping,
BiagioNo problem, Molly! Rick is a great guy and much admired in the luthier community. I would trust his guidance on any question.
He is usually very prompt so if you do not get a reply soon give him a call. The last time we were in contact (I bought a custom spruce SB) there were two email addresses on the website; one was from when he still was working as an engineer and is no longer valid.
BTW if Rick asks about dimensions I suggest parallel string rows about 1.5″ apart at the board, with the highest treble having at least 1″ free vibrating surface to the outside; that would make the width at the neck about 4.5″ to 6″. If you use a round back shell the bass width will be determined by whatever that is at the neck.
Please let me know how it turns out!
Cheers,
Biagio
