Clark Harp questions

[gaffanon]

thank you both Charles and Talfryn. for you insight and help. Ive learned in doing my research this is a common issue with the clark harp separating at that joint. It seems they were built so fast that the wood was not always properly seasoned. the glue in the tuning peg holes was a concern from the get go. how do I check the current pins to get the proper taper reamer? I may seem a bit obtuse here but I want to do this as best as possible. email a bunch of luthiers again hopefully some one locally will answer. Talfryn I would love to see your harps. and anyone elses harps they have made would love to see what you all do.

[charles-nix]

For taper pin dimensions, consult about any edition of Machinery’s Handbook, or icscuttingtools.com used to have multiple charts on their website, complete with lengths and diameters of both ends. There are also charts showing drill depth for creating holes prepared for reaming.

Be prepared to spend $$$ for a taper pin reamer. You want a LEFT hand twist reamer so it won’t draw itself tighter into the hole. You may be able to make do with a straight reamer, but with that joint, and dealing with wood grain, I think it will give you an oblong hole. Mine came from Atlas Cutting tool. There are other sources.

I get new pins from Dan Speer at Argent Fox. Most any size and head type you want.

Tuning pins have to be seated the correct amount because the angle the string makes leaving the pin and passing over the bridge pin is important to sound, tuning ability, and string life. A spiral taper reamer, with a T-handle tap wrench makes the accuracy needed possible.

Keep in mind there are a number of “standard” harp tuning pin square heads: concert, Dusty Strings, Triplett, zither are all different. You need to find an undamaged one to measure what you have. I would lean toward going back with concert head, regardless.

To measure, use a micrometer or a really good dial caliper. There is no other option. Both “Machinery’s Handbook” and good used micrometers are commonly available on Ebay.

To be sure you are aware, a string set will likely cost $200-400, and pins maybe $5-6 each. Tooling to do the job is likely another $150-200 used on Ebay–but I have no idea what you have already.

[balfour-knight]

Thank you, Charles and Talfryn! You supplied so much good information and advice for Gaffanon. At times like this, I really miss my dad, because he could literally fix anything. I learned a lot from him, but I am primarily a musician, with my attempts at woodworking and instrument building, on the side.

One thing to note is that Dusty Strings and Musicmakers use non-tapered, threaded tuning pins similar to piano tuning pins, except that they are actually harp pins. I would not recommend these, but rather concert harp tapered tuning pins, like Charles and Talfryn describe.

Good luck, Gaffanon! At least we now know a whole lot more than we did when you began this thread!

Best wishes,
Balfour

[charles-nix]

Good point, Balfour. The existing ones “look” like they are tapered type, but……. While I understand Dusty Strings’ choice of cylindrical, threaded pins (they stay tight without reseating or training the harpist), I dislike them overall.

First, Every.Single.Time a string has to be replaced, the harpist (or technician) must pre-guess how many wraps of string will be on the pin, and depending on the thickness of the string, pre-set the pin the correct number of turns out so the end of the string winding ends up having the correct angle to the bridge pin. I can’t do it right every time, and harps I see in for regulation are usually way off, many times with the string having a backwards angle to the bridge pin.

Second, when they get loose (and they do, though the threads help them hold tight) you can’t fix it very well. They sell an oversized pin–but it is a lot larger. The only fix is to put cyanoacrylate in the holes to swell and stiffen and reinforce the wood fibers. I’m not convinced of long term life on that.

Building the harp for Dusty, is, however MUCH simpler. No drilling a precise tapered hole. No hand reaming and fitting every pin. Just drive them in to drilled holes through to the depth you need, less a few turns for the stringing. And they do stay tighter longer without attention by the harpist–until they don’t.

But they still build an excellent, very solid harp, and a really good price for the quality.

[balfour-knight]

Charles, thanks for putting into words exactly why I do not care for these threaded harp pins! It is far more trouble to restring my Dusty FH36S with 36 strings and these threaded pins than it is to restring my concert pedal harp with 47 strings and standard, tapered pins. The tapered harp tuning pins have been around a LONG time, and have proven themselves. All other pins are just inferior to them, period.

Have a great day, my harp friends!
Balfour

[Author]

Posts