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Be glad you have a job. There’s an old saying about musicians….keep your day job. Actually, it should be….make sure you HAVE a day job.
Music has to be pretty much extra for most people, I would guess.No one has written, so I’ll throw in my two cents.
Are you considering anything other than sound? Like weight, for example.
How much will you be moving it? Will it fit in your vehicle? If you’re young, you can move anything, but if you’re not, you might be setting yourself up for a difficult time. I’ve always been so glad I couldn’t afford a larger harp. Mine’s a LH15 with lots of miles on her.
I’m an LH person myself, so I can’t opine on the Salvis. I don’t know why people like naturals. They look like someone forgot to put the stain on.Tenosynovitis. The Dr gave me a shot at the base of the thumb yesterday. He is a hand and wrist specialist. The L thumb started bothering me Tues, the day after my appt on Mon, but he said to splint it and come for the followup in three weeks. The L is kind of on and off. Maybe he wants to see the results of the R treatment. My splint is a large paper clip with wraparound stretchy bandage about an inch wide. (They try to sell you $60 ones at the office.)
I think it is synovitis. I have a friend who plays piano, and she had it. She had surgery for it, and she says it’s been fine since. I’m going to call that doctor tomorrow and hope I can get an appt. soon. He is a hand-wrist doctor, and I know him because he put my wrist back together 20 yrs ago when I fell skating.
My left thumb has some pain also, but not nearly as much as the right. There is also pain where my R thumb connects to the hand. Heat helps. It feels like the joint separates and then goes back together.
It kind of points to that (tenosynovitus), and may be deterioration because our thumbs are probably the most overworked digits we have. I’m going to try not practicing for a while. (Once I broke my wrist and didn’t practice for three months because I couldn’t move my fingers. It was not hard to resume practicing. I’m a song player, so not super skilled technically.)
As for opening jars, I have a device that fits all sizes jars and is really easy to use. My mom got it years ago, and I inherited it. There is a similar one online, but it has one less option on it than mine.I figure if a composer wants his “harp part” played, he will make an effort to learn how a harp is played.
If they won’t bother, I won’t bother.
Encouraging ignorance is not helpful.I have a list of Mexican songs on my website.
http://www.WeddingHarpMusic.yolasite.comI actually bought CP many years ago. Mine shows both 1 & 2 on each page. I wish you had said something. Maybe I could have helped.
I don’t remember where I ordered it from, but it’s the real thing. Anyone w/enough time should buy it. It really helps to see both parts together. And yes, the page turns are pretty drastic.The Bow Brand problem is still there in the big guts. They last so long that they don’t get replaced as often, so that inventory is still there. That would explain the two bad ones I got.
No matter who sells it, it’s still Bow Brand from the same company in the UK.
http://www.bowbrand.co.uk/home.html
A couple of years ago, people were writing in about them breaking a lot.
It seems that a string that breaks right away must not be good.
Maybe you could find a way to keep the harp in its own little closet at the U?It’s still not clear which string (octave, letter) you are referring to. Are you talking about a 2nd octave gut? Most people don’t use gut up there.
Are the strings stored in the plastic bags they come in? Most of us also put that bagged string into a bigger plastic bag that holds all the strings in that octave.
Anyway, the string comes in its own protective plastic bag.
I would say the string is bad.
I live in S. TX, and my harps are in temp and humidity that varies constantly…no uniformity at all. I keep windows open as much as possible, so it may be dry or humid, hot or cool. I use temp control only when it gets too hot (in the 90s) or too cool (below 70). I’m the queen of old strings. My strings usually last forever.
I feel LH is still selling the bad batch of Bow Brand that people were complaining about a couple of years ago. The company is still sending them, and LH is still selling them and trying to make excuses for them.
Bow Brand is UK, and Premier is made in France, BTW, according the FAQ.
https://www.vaharpcenter.com/premier-harp-strings/Is it Bow Brand gut? Which string is it? I’m guessing it’s 5th octave. I sent two 5A back to LH because of that. The first one, I finally got a knot in it, and when I tried to bring it to pitch, it broke…at the top. The 2nd one, I struggled toooo long trying to get a knot in it bec like you said, the string cracked at every bend. I gave up and sent that back also.
I got a Premier from Atlanta Harp Co., but as someone else said, the lengths are very short. I play a 15, and I could barely reach. I wrote them twice because they seemed to think it was only that string, but others had complained about that. I told them I didn’t see how anyone with a bigger harp could even use them. So if your harp is bigger than a 15, be aware that the Premier might be too short. It didn’t crack, tho, and it’s on there now, doing fine.I got my Premier 5B and 5A.
I put on the 5A, and I completely agree with the assessment that someone wrote on the Forum. There is not enough length, and I wrote to Atlanta Harp Center about it.
You have to have enough length to hold onto the string while putting it thru the hole at the top and bringing it under the string.
I have a LH15, and I told AHC that anyone with a large harp probably would not have enough length to wind the string. They really need to correct that problem.
Otherwise, so far, the string seems to be OK.
5th octave A and B guts are always hard to tie, just because they are so thick.
I suggested that some string company could offer pre-knotted single-length strings. I certainly would buy them. Wires are easy to put on because you don’t have to tie a knot.
