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Oh how funny Audrey- I’m working on the same song! I played the “A” version last year and this year I’m working on the “B” version. Another good workout on the fourth, chords, and placing is O Holy Night (both versions).
Hi Renate, and welcome!
I too am self-taught. Been playing for almost five years now, started out on a 22-string lap harp and graduated to a larger folk harp a little over 1 1/2 years ago. Also just overcame bad technique habits AND writing in those bass clef notes about a year ago. I learned
Playing background music for dinners, wine-tastings and Victorian teas are my favorite venue. Much less sense of pressure. When you’re on stage everyone focuses on you. It’s all those pairs of eyes that can be unnerving.
I really like the suggestion of “hiding behind the harp”. However, wouldn’t that affect the projection? (Unless of course you are miked). I have a transducer installed in my soundbox, but I prefer to play acoustic. I find the sound projects from the front of the soundboard and have to face forward towards the audience.
Another glitch I noticed while playing various venues- The pattern on the floors. I once played at this country club that had the most outrageous geometric patterned carpeting. Felt like I was having flashbacks every time I looked at the strings….not fun….
Thanks, Audrey! Actually she sits very well, even my Limerick sits nice, and he doesn’t even have feet. I even attach a harp stand to her column
The Tree (World Tree, Ygdrassil, Tree of Life) symbol is a rosette I ordered from Musicmaker’s. They also have cross and trinity (triscele) symbols. Go to their website http://www.harpkit.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&category_code=rosette
The crosses are on clearance- so if these are what you had in mind, get ’em quick!
Hope this helps.
Brightest Blessings,
Karen
And a closer shot of the fabulous sheen of the walnut wood that Jerry Brown of Musicmaker’s picked out for
I will try and post you some pics soon, on a separate thread. They have sound samples for the wire strung Limerick on Musicmaker’s. Glad to help!
Also, the sustain of these steel strings is ENORMOUS. It even blows away my hammered dulcimer in that quality. I attribute this to the soundboard. My Voyageur, which is nylon, gut, and wound steel strung, also has great sustain. My only gripe about the strings is having to color the F’s and C’s. I use a paint marker, but it still wears off and I wind up with blue and red fingertips. Plus, if you paint the lowest wound string (an F) it dulls the ringing tone somewhat.
My Limerick is all steel strings, with wound ones at the bass. The soundboard is glued into the grooves. This harp was very easy to construct, easier than the Voyageur. However, I did choose walnut wood, which is a bear to sand. But the wonderful swirl patterns and sheen of the wood was well worth it. I will try to post some pics if you are interested.
I have, and it plays beautifully! I chose the walnut wood in my kit, and I have not had any problems with any part of the construction. Sounds just like bells and has a BIG voice and sustain.
I agree with both Audrey and Carl, to differing degrees. I suffer from what I call moderate jitters when it comes to playing in front of an audience, especially on a stage. However, it has not stopped me from playing, so I would not consider it something that is debilitating. I also use other methods like meditation, EFT, and natural supplements to help with my nerves-as an alternative to medication.
I’m with Barbara on this. I started out on a lap harp that only went down to the F below middle C, and I had to transpose the bass line ALOT. As long as you stay within the chord, it should sound fine. For example, if your bass line is Low C-Low E , and G, you could invert the chord to G, Middle C, & E. Or just play everything an octave higher. How high does your lap harp go? Mine only went to F, and this was a problem too.
I tried re-stringing my lap harp to get the low “C” and it didn’t work. Even with a thicker gauge string in order to get that note I had to adjust the tension too low. Was like plucking a piece of spaghetti, and did not sound good at all.
Well, I have a student who bought one of these harps used, and I can relate to the low quality materials. She showed it to me and I pointed out the significant crack running up the eyelets, pretty much the length of the whole soundboard. It appeared to me as if they used pressboard for the soundboard itself. I’ve never seen anything like it. Couldn’t identify the sharping levers either- big, bulky metal things.
Check out this article:
http://www.harpkit.com/Merchant2/articles/sdbrd_debate.html
Best argument I’ve read or heard, and it comes from an experienced luthier, Jerry Brown of Musicmaker’s. I have built three harps from kits, the oldest one is over 15 years old and not a crack in sight. This harp was not from Musicmaker’s- I got it in Tuscon, AZ
