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Hi Reuben,
Agreed if these were fixed to the Sweetharp neck with hex headed screws. However, Chris used Phillips headed ones since the wood is too thin for the hex headed machine screws that come with Lovelands. I’ve never seen a ball end phillips driver; actually it is hard to see how one could be made.
It is a good suggestion to have a ball end driver of the right size in one’s tool kit though!
One of many reasons that I like Truitts is that one does not run into this problem. The screws are torque T-6 and are not under the lever cam, as the Lovelands are.
Biagio
Great call Wil. Sometimes playing a second will sound OK too.
Regarding the Sweetharp in particular, I’m not sure it is worth while having levers at all – there are lots of tunes in one key without accidentals, or use the wire harpers’ methods that Cynthia describes.
But if you really want at least a few to make changing keys easier – Cs Fs an Bs for instance – you might consider the Truitt size K or K2 with appropriate sized frets. Not cheap at about $17 each US but they are easy to mount and you will not have any problem accessing the holding screws. If that seems like an option to explore contact Betty Truitt at http://www.dragonwhispers.com/
Tell her the situation and she will provide a lot of advice as well as the appropriate sizes.
Good luck!
BiagioThank you for the tip Gretchen, I will take a look for sure.
As you and others here know, my interests until recently have been in design more than playing. But now that I’ve been relieved of the band saw, drill press etc. time to get back to actually playing LOL.
Fortunately I live where there are many great teachers and resources – Puget Sound. Just have to get out of the house and use them!
Biagio
I forgot to tell you this Katia…it will be easier to get at the screws if you take off the lever cams. They pivot on the lever base, fastened with a 1/4″ nut so you will just need to get a 1/4″ wrench. Remove the cam and you will be able to easily reach the screw head.
The Sweetharp was a great concept but Chris ran into all sorts of trouble with the component manufacture (third party computer laser machine). It did not help that he was mortally ill at the same time. A great musician, luthier and teacher – one of the harp world’s tragedies.
Biagio
The Sweetharp levers are Lovelands, you are right. Assuming that you can get the screws out you could replace them with those specially designed ones that Dusty Strings sells – but there is a problem with those on the Sweetharp. The wood is only 3/8″ thick so the screw ends will poke through. Up to you but if it were me I’d just leave the levers off permanently. It would still be a great little harp.
Biagio
Gretchen, thank you! Your point wrt being relaxed and confident really goes to the core, I think, of Kim’s question.
Jocelyn showed me a score that her composer husband (Michael Leese) had presented her – it was enough to scare the daylights out of the most experienced harpists. I watched her practicing and she was tackling it incredibly slowly and yes there were buzzes all over the place. She might work for an hour or more on just one or two phrases.
Jocelyn was a wonderful teacher, the kind that all students dream about; she cared for her students as much as a parent would. I am still deeply saddened that she passed away – I had only been studying with her for a few months but in that time came to love her not only for her commitment to us but for her courage.
Her nickname was “Joy”; the new model of the “Douglas harp” from Arsalaan Fey is named Joy in her honor.
I hope these comments are helpful Kim!
Biagio
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Can’t help with the buzzing as there may be many reasons. But as Carl mentioned harpists hands are quite varied. I have rather small hands very similar to those of my first teacher, Jocelyn Chang. Note the way she places and raises:
She plays very smoothly and when she places the fingers are firmly on the strings while the next is being played.
Biagio
I’m sorry Indra, but I should have asked how long this will be? What you are doing now will not hurt it. If however this will be for two years or longer you might as well just loosen the strings and not bother.
It’s up to you; the strings will last longer if you loosen them while leaving it alone for that time. Yes, you would have to retune but after two or more years gut will begin to deteriorate anyway.
I don’t suppose there is any chance to purchase a smaller nylon strung harp where you are now?
Best wishes,
BiagioIf I understand you correctly, your Prelude will be for all intents and purposes in long term storage; is that right? In that case it might be wise to slacken the strings.
I would not usually recommend that for a harp that will be played once in a while; however, it sounds like you will only be able to check on this briefly while you are away. If you intend to check and play regularly, just be sure that it is safely stored:
Cover it with a dust cover and be sure if possible that the temperature and humidity where it is stored are fairly constant. Place it in a corner of the room to be sure it will not get knocked over.
Biagio
Just curious whether anyone has retrofitted their acoustic harp with the system that David Kortier markets? It’s far beyond my personal interest (and technical knowledge) but seems to me the best solution if one wishes to invest the money. Here’s his description:
http://www.kortier.com/pickups.htm
Blissfully all acoustic,
BiagoCharles, I have been meaning to mention: there are a couple of other harp forums that are worth your while joining, both on Groups.io. The Harplist has been around a long time and has a very large number of members. The Virtual Harp Circle has a smaller following – around 500 members and is specifically intended to provide resources for beginning “harperists.” Although by now it has a number of professionals and even a couple of harp makers.
Balfour, I find the best thing about senior moments is that after a certain age I don’t really worry about very much:-)
Best wishes to all,
BiagioEdit: wood is a living thing but let’s consider: a laminate board such as on the Telenn, Ravenna, etc. consists of perhaps 5 thin cross layered laminations per 3mm. Extremely strong and flexible – they make aircraft wings and racing yacht masts out of the stuff for goodness sakes. It also does not change a heck of a lot over time and stress. Good news.
On the other hand, a spruce, cedar, cypress or other board is also strong and flexible but it WILL change structurally over time – not only due to constant tension but from who plays it and how.
This may sound metaphysical but I bet Balfour, Saul,Paul, Tacye, Wil and others would agree – harps are made and played with respect to science, craftsmanship and – yes, magic.
The Telenn is a great harp and the board will flex. Once it has reached it’s equilibrium it will stay there a long time. So do not worry.
Just had to get that off my chest, sorry guys.
Harp hugs to all,
BiagioYep, Charles, and that is something that is not only to be expected but enhances tone over time. A new harp will continue to “belly up” over it’s life which will hopefully be many years. With the Telenn and it’s laminate soundboard it should stabilize fairly soon – a few months.
With a spruce, cedar, etc. board and depending on many other factors that will stabilize somewhat later and achieve it’s best tone after maybe 5 years. With a board such as the Telenn has it will stabilize much sooner. or less. One reason why such a board is a good idea for the first harp!
You can look forward to tuning it often at first; daily for preference. But it should be holding tone pretty soon and with mo noticeable increase in the belly,
I had an 80 year old harp that sounded probably better than many now on the market. No harp will last forever but your Telenn has many years ahead!
Biagio
Wonderful to hear that Charles and thank you so much for telling us! The journey begins and I am sure that you will enjoy your Telenn!
Off topic but since the subject came up…I often use fluorocarbon or sometimes gut in the “transition zone” (around G below middle C down to E) where one would otherwise have to use nylon wound over nylon. I just prefer monofilament FC since the density is higher than gut; but on the other hand it takes FOREVER to stretch in:-)
Happy New Year Almost,
Biagio
