Getting a style 100

[kreig-kitts]

Yes, that’s another consideration. If the wood has a beautiful figure, I’d hate to cover it up. I see some harps with interesting grain in the columns

[tony-morosco]

I doubt most harp builders are going to use the best grained wood for something that is going to be covered. Besides, I thought that most pedal harps were veneered anyway? Perhaps I am wrong about that, but I thought most of the larger builders used veneers and the underlying wood was all pretty much the same.

But even if not, I know that electric guitar builders save the nicest looking wood for guitars that will have a transparent finish that shows the grain, and that the wood that is otherwise good but has visual imperfections are the ones they coat in opaque finishes. I would think that harp builders do the same. Nice looking wood must be hard to come buy. If I were building an instrument I wouldn’t use it on something that is going to get covered up.

Perhaps Carl will stop by this thread and enlighten us.

[barbara-brundage]

> Besides, I thought that most pedal harps were veneered anyway?

Yes, the body and neck are, and builders aren’t going to waste the cost of figured veneer on something they plan to paint, at least not usually. The inside of the neck is something like piano pin block and the column is glued up from maple. In the case of an instrument like the Style 30 with simple flat planes, the column may also be veneered–L&H offered a bunch of luscious exotic wood veneered 30s for a while. Not with carved harps.

It used to be that L&H charged more ($500 when I bought my 23, which was substantial back then) for the natural finish and some harp teachers used to say to buy a natural harp not for looks but because there was no place to hide a flaw or major mineral deposit that way. They stopped the natural finish surcharge many years ago. I don’t know that it ever really did make a difference in the quality of the instrument.

[barbara-brundage]

One time when you might get figured veneer under ebony would be when the harps are being done assembly line style and they just go ahead and make up x number of bodies and x number of necks, using the same veneer on all of them, because it’s just simpler to have everything work with everything and not worry about what’s going to happen when it gets to the spray booth.

So you might well find something interesting under the ebony, although on the recent L&H ebony harps I’ve seen there’s a kind of red gesso-like undercoat that’s usually what you see when there’s a minor finish accident, rather than the wood itself.

[paul-wren]

I have two L&H 100’s. My first one I got when I was in school many years ago. It was is a SG and bought used. It has the most amazing warm rich tone that many other harpist have commented on.

[Saul Davis Zlatkovski]

I disagree with your reasoning, YJ. My parents did not have much money either, but made a better investment by buying the one instrument I would always use and need. I never

[Saul Davis Zlatkovski]

There is a difference with the more-expensive harps: their wood has been aged longer. The quality is better. The veneers are more carefully chosen.

An ebony finish, to my view, is adding a thicker layer that will inhibit the sound. As little finish as possible is the ideal. The problem with darker instruments is also that they don’t show up on stage, they are harder to see, but a natural or gold harp will always stand out in the light, and so will the finer carving. That’s why my teacher insisted on natural 23s.

[tony-morosco]

“An ebony finish, to my view, is adding a thicker layer that will inhibit the sound.”

That sounds reasonable in theory, but I just had my

[Philippa mcauliffe]

I adore ebony too but Philippa loves more aged looking

[Jerusha Amado]

I’ve heard two 100’s in person.

[YJ Lin]

Oh my god!! So many replies…! I’ve emailed Lyon and Healy, and yup they have been friendly. The salesperson was a professional harpist, so he might be a better judge of sound than I am. He even asked what kind of sound I looked for. I requested for one that “projecting but does not sound harsh at the high notes”, since I have received comments from my peers that high notes tend to sound harsh when I play T.T

By the way, my current lever harp is ebony. And it’s pretty! But it’ll have to go to make way for the Style 100. It’s kind of hard to part with it, because it’s my first harp. Here’s a picture of it.

I don’t really think that the finish affects sound quality. I think it’s more of the string quality + soundboard. Though, I’d like your frank opinions on mahogany as a finish. I have a hard time deciding between natural and mahogany, but I’m leaning towards mahogany.

Oh, and I’m so glad that the 100 is pretty well-received! Thanks for letting me know!

[tony-morosco]

Personally I like mahogany. My lever harp is mahogany and I love the look.

I’m off for a while on holiday so this is my last post foe a while, so I will leave you with this bit of advice: trust your instincts.

[jessica-wolff]

Depends. I don’t like the mahogany finish on the Lyon & Healy (Prelude?). OTOH I’ve seen other mahogany finish harps that were very attractive.

[YJ Lin]

Tony,

Thank you so much for your advice, especially earlier on. I feel somehwat better about my decision after reading your posts.

[holly-kemble]

Hi YJ~

I visited the Lyon & Healy harp factory a few weeks ago. If you ever find yourself in Chicago with a few hours to spare…they give tours at noon. Highly recommended. And there are dozens of harps to try!

All of their

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