Home › Forums › Harps and Accessories › fly-away pedal
- This topic has 15 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 3 months ago by
Sylvia.
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April 9, 2012 at 9:21 pm #69893
Sylvia
ParticipantAny home remedies?
April 9, 2012 at 9:35 pm #69894Tacye
ParticipantI don’t quite see how a loose pedal can fly away, but gloop (beeswax maybe) in the pivot might form a temporary amelioration.
April 9, 2012 at 10:01 pm #69895Sylvia
ParticipantI guess fly-away is a term from the ancient past.
April 9, 2012 at 10:13 pm #69896carl-swanson
ParticipantThe best solution is to have a technician drill out the bronze rivet and replace it with a nut and bolt made specifically for that. It takes time, the pedals have to be removed from the harp to do the work(the brass pedal AND the steel pedal bar inside the base), but it’s not difficult to do. I’m not sure a technician on the road can do it though. You really need a drill press and an anvil to work on it. Where are you located?
April 9, 2012 at 10:49 pm #69897Sylvia
ParticipantI’m in South Texas.
April 9, 2012 at 11:07 pm #69898Sylvia
ParticipantAnyway, thank you for the info.
April 10, 2012 at 12:18 am #69899carl-swanson
ParticipantSylvia- If you can get the harp up to Dallas David Williams could take care of it. A temporary fix is to take the pedestal off, disconnect the pedal spring so the pedal and steel pedal bar will stay away from the body of the harp. Take two heavy hammers, hold one against the bronze rivet on one side of the pedal, and then give the other end of the rivet three or four hard whacks with the other hammer. That should tighten up the rivet. But it’s usually just a temporary fix.
April 10, 2012 at 12:29 am #69900Sylvia
ParticipantThank you, but Dallas is a really fur piece up the road…lots of gas and time and money, so I’ll just go with inertia.
April 10, 2012 at 3:51 pm #69901barbara-fackler
ParticipantThreadsealers come in different strengths. Be SURE you use one that is temporary. I find I reapply this about every 18 months. My pedals stay where I want them. Use very very little. If they are too stiff at first, work them up and down to get them moving again.
Pay attention to the instructions and color. It comes in red and blue strengths too. Read and heed instructions for use.
April 10, 2012 at 3:57 pm #69902Sylvia
ParticipantSounds good, but my pedals don’t have screws, and I don’t know what kind of bolt goes thru there…so I don’t know if there are threads in
April 13, 2012 at 2:23 am #69903barbara-fackler
ParticipantI do this on a L&H 30 built in 1975 and a 23 from 1978. I’d guess your pedals are similar. Don’t use too much. Start with ONE drop. It doesn’t take much.
April 13, 2012 at 5:24 am #69904john-strand
Participantabout 8 inches of duct tape wound around the offending joint

BTW – David Williams does travel around Texas so check with him and see if he has plans to be anywhere near you in the foreseeable future – in the meantime, the duct tape will sure stop it from flapping around –
April 15, 2012 at 2:24 pm #69905Sylvia
ParticipantWhich color of threadsealer should I get?
April 16, 2012 at 1:06 am #69906barbara-fackler
ParticipantYes, green is what you need. Try an auto parts store. They should have it in stock.
ONE drop of the green stuff. If you get too much it’s very stiff for a while.
Each color indicates how the stuff works. The wrong stuff will be worse than the floppy pedal.
April 18, 2012 at 8:20 pm #69907Sylvia
ParticipantI got the green stuff.
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