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I like the Peterson VS-1 Virtual Strobe Tuner. It has a built in mic, but I use a clip-on pickup that plugs into it to pick up the extreme highs and lows. Some people really like the Snark SN2 Clip Electronic Tuner from Sylvia Woods Harp Center.
Vanderbilt has her arrangement for pedal harp in the collection “Salvi Pop Harp Series, Vol. 1.” I wasn’t aware she made one for lever harp.
Yes, it has to do with the circle of fifths, and which pedals are most often needed and in which combinations, and keeping a symmetrical movement pattern as far as possible. As to why there are four on the right and three on the left instead of the reverse, probably a harp tech who also knows lots of instrument history like Carl would be the best person to answer that, assuming it wasn’t an arbitrary choice. With seven pedals, it can’t come out even on both sides. Even when there was an eighth “swell” pedal, it was in the middle.
I’ve had this kind of problem. It can be that the inside of the jack socket has some debris in it and needs to be cleaned out. We ended up getting a new jack from Camac through Virginia Harp Center and replacing the old one. It’s not complicated but requires soldering. If you’re not comfortable doing it, get someone who is accustomed to that kind of work with electronics after you get the replacement part.
It’s been tried. Camac made a harp with hydraulic controls that could preset pedals and change multiples on command. Didn’t go over. Must also consider that the wooden parts of harps change as they age and regulations must be tweaked to get pitches as close to accurate as possible. Sometimes that means bending disc pins or swapping out discs for other sizes, etc. Also most of us prefer not to depend on electricity being available wherever we play; we even use battery amplifiers. One of the beauties of playing the harp is that a well-trained harpist can do many non-structural repairs at home or on the road. Most of us wouldn’t want to attempt dealing with electrical problems.
Start at the top or bottom, whichever you prefer, and bring each string up to pitch or even a hair sharp as you put it on. I like to start at the top since the first octave nylons take the longest to hold pitch. As you work your way down, continue to tune each string you’ve already changed in addition to the one you just put on. Wires hold their pitch quicker than the rest, as you know, so I leave them for last. Tune it every time you look at it or walk by it. Have fun!
Contact a working harpist in the area where you’ll be working to find out the going rate for various jobs and do not undercut that rate. Most harpists will be glad to give you that information specifically so that you won’t charge too little. Some will be very friendly and give you lots of info. To paraphrase, “Keep your friends close and your competition closer.”
You’ll definitely want to discuss any purchase with her teacher first, but for comfort and weight check out a Camac Clio with extended soundboard. The soundboard is really wide for a 44 string harp and the sound is big. Weight is about 57 lbs. I have used one for years in a community orchestra and the director was very satisfied. Or you could consider a Camac concert grand which has 47 strings but still weighs less than other brands.
It’s “For the Love of a Princess” which you can get from musicnotes.com. Just put Braveheart in the search box and it comes up. By James Horner. Of course it’s piano music.
So glad to hear you are safe! I keep you in my prayers and hope you will soon be happy in your new life with your new harp!
I use this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301507269245?lpid=82&chn=ps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7f7PQ7dEcU
I do use a clip on pick up from Sylvia Woods for my harp that doesn’t have mics built in. For the harps with mics inside I just run a cable directly from the harp to the strobe. You can get it for about $200 or less depending on the source.
Ian, I’ve had a Camac Clio since 1999 and a second-hand Camac Trianon (also 44 string) since 2012. Originally I bought Vanderbilt Classic gut, as the nice folks at the harp store said it was closest to Camac strings (and easier to get and less expensive). I also have a Lyon & Healy concert grand and didn’t want to have to maintain two separate sets of replacement strings and wires. Now that Classic is no longer available I use Bow Brand or Vanderbilt Burgundy. I’ve always used Vanderbilt wires on those harps. The strings are fine and the harps sound great. I use gut up through the second octave, above which I use nylon. It’s my understanding a good harp tech can adjust the spring tension which will change the feel of the pedals, so ask about that when you have your next regulation. Be sure to change any strings at least two weeks before regulating so they’ll have a chance to settle in and hold their pitch. Good luck and enjoy your harp!
Hi, Jessica. You are the perfect age to prepare for competitions as the cut off age for most is 35. You can find a lot of information on competitions from the American Harp Society. Their website is http://www.HarpSociety.org If you’re not a member, consider joining at the student rate so you can be on their mailing list for all that info. Good luck!
