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Hi! Thanks for the advice! I did want a dehumidifier, unfortunately the room it is placed cannot be closed completely so it would be wasteful to buy one anyway. The humidity is fairly constant even though its high. Does anyone have an idea what would happen if it is kept in high humidity? The room is dry (liquid-wise). It seems from the forum here most harpists face the opposite problem.
Actually I live in Singapore, which is very, very humid (70-90%) and hot. (Is that bad for L&H harp???) I’ve read that the way to get rid of powderpost beetles is not by fumigation, but by application of toxic chemicals which can penetrate wood to kill eggs and larvae altogether. I’m wondering if the wood used by L&H to make the harp is prone to attack by powderpost beetles? I’m assuming that they are anobiid powderpost beetles (the frass they leave behind is gritty), and they attack both hardwoods and softwoods with high moisture level. My mum told me not to worry because L&H uses a different kind of wood but of course for the harp I don’t want to take chances until its too late. Even then, I can’t bear to apply toxic chemicals to the harp…
That was fast! Alright, I’ll try to convince my father to get it done professionally. He always prefers to solve problems in the house DIY. But I’m so worried about the harp because it’s really new, if it gets attacked at all I would feel great pain many times the harp suffered.
Hello 🙂
Please explain humidex 60; does that mean humidity of 60%? I think 23 C is fine, as long as the room environment is stable, and the conditions are not extreme. According to my contact with a Lyon and Healy personnel recently, the most ideal humidity range for their harps is 40-50%, but I believe it’s not very different for Salvi, though you have to ask them.
Regards
Holly: Thanks for sharing the details of your tour! It explains why the professional harpist I contacted suggested the 100 over the Chicago. Just curious, are the guts of style 85 different from 100s and above?
Georgina: Thanks! I had to ask, as I’ve never really seen a good photo of a mahogany 100. I’ve only seen a natural 100 on Lyon and Healy website, ebony 100 here, walnut here. The mahogany…closest one is here, but its the 2000CG soundboard color looks slightly different from the ebony 100. That’s sounds scary! Why are there holes?! If anything happens to the harp, my heart breaks along with it.
Tony,
Thank you so much for your advice, especially earlier on. I feel somehwat better about my decision after reading your posts.
Oh my god!! So many replies…! I’ve emailed Lyon and Healy, and yup they have been friendly. The salesperson was a professional harpist, so he might be a better judge of sound than I am. He even asked what kind of sound I looked for. I requested for one that “projecting but does not sound harsh at the high notes”, since I have received comments from my peers that high notes tend to sound harsh when I play T.T
By the way, my current lever harp is ebony. And it’s pretty! But it’ll have to go to make way for the Style 100. It’s kind of hard to part with it, because it’s my first harp. Here’s a picture of it.
I don’t really think that the finish affects sound quality. I think it’s more of the string quality + soundboard. Though, I’d like your frank opinions on mahogany as a finish. I have a hard time deciding between natural and mahogany, but I’m leaning towards mahogany.
Oh, and I’m so glad that the 100 is pretty well-received! Thanks for letting me know!
Dear Saul,
As I researched for a suitable harp model for myself, I’ve followed the forum postings very closely as to what anyone says about any model. I have noted yours, and I predicted that you’d recommend the 23, as you really did. I have absolutely nothing against the 23, but the thing is, I’m only a student harpist, and my parents are financing the purchase of the harp. To me, the 23 is too extravagant, which I can only ask for as a professional harpist. I don’t really want to place too much financial burden on my parents as they work really hard to bring home the bacon.
So, my issue now, is to make sure that for what they’re paying, it’ll be worth it. So, in other words, I want to make sure that my harp sounds great, which I can’t do so personally as Chicago is halfway across the globe for me.
I do like the carvings of the 23, but I do, too, like the simple scalloped column of the 100. I think its cute. I saw one 100 on Lyon and Healy CPO Harps before, and soon it was sold. I’m guessing that the 100 does have good resale value too.
As for the 23 that I tried on, it belonged to a professional harpist who teaches as well. I’ve asked her about the 100, she says, “there are no 100s to try on here, but it’s very similar (probably tone-wise, I would guess) to the 23s which there are several here.” I know the 23 is beautiful. But I guess, as a student harpist, I have to be modest with my choices. If I become professional, I’m sure that the 100 will still work well, given that I bought a really good one. Also, by then, I should afford the harp I want, than depend on my parents.
Thank you all for your responses! All of your inputs have been very kind and helpful. Especially Georgina, that’s a wonderful suggestion! If anyone of you could help me out with the sound check process, please contact me! I would be very glad to pay a fee to help me out (but not too much…I’m very budget conscious) Hopefully, you’ll be already staying in Chicago, I would not like to bother anyone of you to travel far. Or does Lyon and Healy offer such a service? (ask for a harpist to evaluate the sound)
You might be interested in this website: http://www.topharp.com/en/index.shtml
The company is called Nanjing Eagle Harps.
