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Your explanation seems very logical, that longer string will have less tension and bigger frame of the harp equals bigger sound, less effort needed.
I have no objection of the Prelude’s sound quality but I wish it can be played with less effort.
Thank you for suggesting the dehumidifier. Here a Stadtler electric dehumidifier from Switzeeland costs about 400 USD. I’m still saving money for it. After realized how bad the damp climate affected the tuning pins, I conclude that having a dehumidifier is a must.Indra
Hello @wil-weten, thank you for remind me that nylgut is suited for Celtic tension.
Indeed, that was the main reason why I want to change my string setting on my Prelude.
When I wrote that posting, I was in beginning process of relearning the harp after a long hiatus. It took some times to develop strength and calluses for me to practice on the harp comfortably.
When I took harp lesson 10 years ago, I played on my teacher’s Salvi Electra. I remember clearly that compared with my Prelude, playing the Salvi Electra was easier on my hand. The tension was looser, and each notes sounded pretty without much effort. She never answered clearly what type of string she used, but I remember that the C’s and F’s on that Electra is rather transparent red and dark blue, compared with my Prelude with opaque black and red from Bow Brand String. Now I think of that, I suspect that perhaps she used nylon strings as she told me that she rarely have a string breakage on her harp.
At that time I though after 10 years perhaps the string tension on my Prelude will be less tight but time proved that I was wrong.
To add my confusion, I did change several 3rd octaves gut string to nylon with expectation that it will make playing the harp easier. I feel that the tension is not so different with gut string and I have to sacrifice the beautiful gut string sound.
So that is the reason why I want to ‘taste’ what nylgut string will feel and sound.
Perhaps this should be on new topic then.Indra
@charles-nix, I supposed waiting for a month wouldn’t be a problem for me. Right now I feel to have aversion toward any chance to make another mess with the harp. However I’m very thankful for your suggestion and will do it if the replacement still doesn’t fit.
Indra
Thank you @balfour for your supportive suggestion. L&H did sent me the supposedly right tuning pin, but they actually do have a slightly wider size for some harps.
They are sending me the replacement at no cost. It is a very nice experience with L&H.
Now I just have to wait for about a month and hopefully the replacement pin will fit the hole. But in case it wouldn’t, I already know what to do.
Best wishes for you, I’m very glad to join this supportive group.Indra
Dear @talfryn & @charles-nix, thank you for your comments.
I have emailed us.harp.com and repair@lyonhealy.com. So far I have just received a reply from us.harp.com where I purchased the pin, inquiring my harp type & serial number. Hopefully it will bring good news for me.
Unfortunately in Indonesia we don’t have harp technician neither harp luthier. You have to become your own technician.That said, every of your suggestions is very helpful for me.
@charles-nix, I will likely try on your suggestion of inserting a piece of sandpaper to the hole with the abrasive on outer side, but I will wait for different option if there any from other member in this forum.
Thank you so much and have a nice day.Indra
Hello @talfryn,
Thank you for your kind words and understanding.
Based on your suggestion, I’ll write an email to L&H concerning this problem.
While waiting their answer, I wonder if I can just insert something to the hole to hold the tuning pin.
If I do have to reorder a new tuning pin, should I just order a 6th octave tuning pin instead?Indra
Dear all,
Finally I gathered my courage to cut my harp string and tap out the broken tuning pin.
The process went smoothly, although quite scary.
Now I have a new problem. The new tapered pin is very loose, it doesn’t fit to the hole.
I think Lyon Healy has sent me the correct tuning pin size as I ordered, for 5th string A. It came with a note #1 on the package.
Should I order a bigger size, if available, or is there any way to make the tuning pin fit neatly to the hole?
Many thanks before.Indra
Thank you for your suggestions, Carl.
Right now there is nothing I can do because I still haven’t the tuning pin on me, still waiting the delivery.
By the time it arrived I will try to loose the strings or wait until it break on it’s own.
I wouldn’t be dare to cut the string because of the assumed loud popping sound when a string break.Thank you for the suggestion, Balfour. I’ll try to use a plier first. Hopefully I don’t have to tap the pin with a hammer.
Thank you Charles and @talfryn, your suggestions prevent me from doing things that I will regret later. T.
I have to admit that I’m full of curiosity but quite clumsy. Last year in an attempt to regulate a lever I almost broke it. But now I can regulate the levers by myself so it won’t chew the strings badly.
I also learned that alter the strings with a size thinner reduces the friction when the lever engaged.
Charles, my Prelude is made in 2003 with performance lever. Since I’m a clumsy technician I think I won’t be dare to have further experiment that will turn into nightmares unless I really have to LOL.
I never heard that Silkgut is a brand for nylgut, so I really appreciate your information.
I will definitely try them on my Prelude later.Thank you very much for the detailed instruction, Charles.
I have just ordered a new tuning pin from Lyon & Healy with a note containing the description of the string along with a new tuning key because I can’ t get the stucked broken part out of it.
With the current situation I expect to receive it in one month.
But I think the repair will be done after the string break on its own, Charles. I imagine that if I cut it, it will make a loud banging sound. Although I have owned the harp for more than 10 years,the sound of a broken string still terrify me.
Yes indeed the lifespan of gut strings in a humid climate are quite short, just about one and half year. Very costly.
This year I’m planning to have the 3rd octave gut string replaced with nylon to cut the cost. I have already test it on the 3rd octave E. I have to say that it sounds not as nice as gut string, but not so bad.
There is a topic about nylgut and I really want to try them on my Prelude but when I went to Aquila website they sell the strings by gauge, not by string number so it confused me. Camac in France sell them by octave but the shipping cost is is quite expensive so it’s not an option for now.
Regarding FC strings, I read somewhere in this forum that FC strings have longer longevity in humid climate but it will give more stress to the soundboard due to its higher tension. Please correct me if I’m wrong.Yes Charles, all of your description is correct…it’s an L&H Prelude, and yes I live in a tropical place with high density of rain with high humidity all year round…and I have to admit that the string wound too tightly near the neck…I’ve should just loosened the pin a bit, but it’s already happened so it’s a hard lesson for me.
I’ve just found a youtube video by Peter Wiley. In that video he demonstrated that you have to hit the tuning pin with a hammer…hopefully it won’t make further damage to the neck.
I wan’t to try it but I’ll have to wait until the string is broken, perhaps not in near future since the string just had have replaced several months ago.I’m very happy to inform that the problem is fixed. The levers need a little bit adjustment to left side so the strings won’t touch the levers in open string position ( neutral ).
Making lever adjustment by yourself for the first time is quite scary though…but you have no option when you don’t have harp technician nearby.Bowie
Again, thank you for your suggestion, Debra..I’ll let you know the result next week after seeing my harp.
Bowie
