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Have you guys thought about using a nice pair of vise-grip pliers to grab the end of that tuning pin, and then very carefully unwind it to get the string loose enough to remove? From the photo, that is what I would try–there is enough of the tuning pin sticking out to get the pliers on, I think.
Hope this helps!
Thanks, everyone,
BalfourHi Gregg and all,
Good posts, these! Gregg, in answer to some of your questions, 1st octave E at the top of the pedal harp used to be the first string, period. Then when makers wanted to go higher, they created the “zero octave” which includes just the f and g on a standard concert grand pedal harp. The range was gradually expanded (by Erard in France and England) to the 47 strings, going down to Low C. (I do like to call that one sixteen-foot C, as an organist, ha, ha!)
On the Camac website, I do not see a difference noted between nylon and nylgut. You may look for yourself and research this further if you like. I did look at Aquila nylgut, which explains the differences, and their string gauges correspond to the metric diameters, just without the decimal.
Good to see all of your posts, my friends!j
Harp Hugs,
BalfourI guess I am a “big harp” person, ha, ha! The smallest harp I have ever found to be really satisfying is the Dusty Ravenna 34. I NEED those bass strings! I have played 26 string harps before, but NO BASS! They would indeed be great teaching instruments, or easy to travel with, but these days, my Dusty FH36S is my smallest harp to take. It is totally fulfilling in every way with its 36 strings, great tone, and small size. Very interesting, Dusty considers this a “large harp” since it is the largest professional model they make.
This is just my opinion, of course! I look forward to others chiming in on this thread.
Cheers,
BalfourHello Gregg and all,
I checked the string chart that came with my Camac Atlantide Prestige. It specifies, starting at the highest string G of the harp:
G00 to F7 –Special Nylon for gut string harp
E8 to A33 –Standard Gut or Light Gut “English Gauge”
or Heavy Gauge Gut or NylgutG34 to C45 (to the lowest C string, which is string 47 actually) Galli wires for concert harp, standard gauge or light gauge
As you can see, Nylon is still used at the top. Nylgut is only supposed to be used as an option further down, at E8 and lower. E8 begins the “second octave” of a concert pedal harp.
I hope this sheds a little light on the subject.
Best wishes and harp hugs,
BalfourHi, Elizabeth,
You might like to check the Simply the Harp website. My good friend, Angi Bemiss, publishes a lot of music for small harps that you and your students could enjoy.
Best regards,
BalfourI also heartily recommend the Atlanta Harp Center. I have been doing business with them since they opened in 2007. For lead sheets, be sure to check out the offerings of Angi Bemiss. The Atlanta Harp Center carries all of her publications.
Cheers,
BalfourHello James,
I do usually travel with a harp, even on vacation. My Dusty FH36S “Cherie” is easier to transport and to pack around, so she is my instrument of choice to take with me.
Glad you are in a “detached house.” That is much better for playing, and practicing on, instruments! I have been lucky that neighbors like my music, but it is good to not be in the same building, you know!
Best regards,
BalfourI had an 85 in natural that was very light blond initially. By the time I sold her after owning her nine years, the color had become just a little more golden, which I loved–she looked more like a gold harp, ha, ha! My Atlantide is beautiful, light tiger maple–the beauty of the wood and grain is just outstanding. If she becomes golden, I will love it. I guess it is all a matter of taste. I built a clavichord in 1980 in natural maple, and the finish over the years has darkened to a nice gold. To each his own, I dare say!
Harp Hugs,
BalfourHi, Gregg,
In answer to your question on the other thread, we do not seem to get notifications when someone “edits” their post. It only lets me know when someone posts something new. Sorry I forgot to let you know.
So glad you were able to get the screw to hold.
Best wishes,
BalfourThanks, everyone! Very nice posts. By the way, are you getting your Covid vaccines? My wife and I have had the first and get the second ones soon. This is the only way back to normal!
Harp Hugs,
Balfour and Carol LynnYou are exactly on my wave-length, Gregg! Just how the 23 has changed over the years would make a great doctoral dissertation, wouldn’t it?
I only have the 1899 catalog facsimile, but I am sure there were many L&H catalogs through the years which might shed some light on this subject. L&H themselves could probably provide some answers if they were contacted.
Best of luck,
BalfourKaren, you are so right about “a Camac will never sound like a L&H or Salvi….” It is precisely this difference in tone, sound, and feel that makes me prefer Camac.
Best to you all,
BalfourI agree, Gretchen, but I was a “rebel,” I guess! My teachers all played Lyon & Healy and Steinway, but I found other brands I liked better, ha, ha!
Harp Hugs,
BalfourToo funny, Gregg! It is very interesting that the 23, especially the Gold one, became THE orchestral harp. My wife says that folks must have thought “that is what a harp should look like.” I do know that other harps made by L&H look very similar to the 23–just look at the 17, which is only slightly smaller. They have also made a 21, 22 and a 24 that have much the same style.
In the 1889 catalog of L&H, the 23, the 21 and the 22 are pictured, and the 22 had the “new patent enlarged sounding board.” (Now referred to as the extended sound board.) All three of these harps had 45 strings and were 69″ high. The Gothic style No. 25 was the only 47 string harp offered, and it stood 71″ high. It could be had also with an extended sound board.
Just why the 23 “won out” and became what it is, I do not know. Maybe there are others reading this forum who can shed some light on this question. I look forward to it!
Best regards,
Balfour
