Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
John, you will be an expert by the time you rebuild that Clark harp, after tackling the L&H 85P pedal harp! Good luck!
That gold artwork will look great with the top brass neck plates and gold-plated discs, John! When you drill the final holes for the eyelets, try to make sure they are in a straight line all the way from the top highest string hole to the bottom string hole. Harpists like a straight, even plane when we place our hands on those strings. The working discs move the strings a bit out of line, from top to bottom, toward and away from the player, but not from side to side. If you can use a drill press for those, that would be the best way, even if you just rent or borrow one for this very important job. A hand-held router would also be nice when you add the side moldings to the soundboard, for rounding them over quickly and evenly. We have places around here that rent out tools like this, so you may be able to do that, too.
Good going! Thanks for all the photos and videos.
Harp rebuilding hugs,
Balfour (and Carol Lynn)Thanks for posting this, John! Your soundboard is really coming along. I love the hand-painted artwork.
Hi Beate,
I was a L&H fanatic until I found my Camac Atlantide Prestige, ha, ha! Have you ever played a Camac Oriane? They are very special harps, with the look of a L&H 23, with great clarity and projection.
Happy searching for your dream harp,
BalfourI’ll add a brief note to my post above, ha, ha! For all you music theorists out there, I know that CEGB is a Major 7th chord, and a C7 is actually CEGBflat. For clarity, I just called those C6, C7 and C. The “theory police” have not come knocking on my door yet, ha, ha!
Happy Harping,
BalfourJohn, ask L&H about the front feet. Yes, harps are supposed to have them, but all styles are different. Good going!
More harp hugs,
Balfour (and Carol Lynn)Hi Fiona,
So glad to hear how much you and Desi are enjoying each other! I feel the same way about my Cherie and Angelica.
I remember many years ago, having a problem learning how to roll chords on the harp, too. Start with the bottom two notes of the chord, playing from bottom up. Do it slowly, one note at a time and gradually build up your speed. Do this many times, with each hand separately, then try putting them together. Use different fingers, like 2 & 1, then 3 & 1, 3 & 2, etc. The next practice session, try this same thing, then add a note so that you are playing three-note chords (triads are pretty!). Once you can play the notes of triads from bottom up pretty fast and solid, fingering 3-2-1, add the top note of a 4-note chord, like C6–CEGA. Play from bottom up slowly, 4-3-2-1 fingering, gradually gaining speed until your 4th fingers are working just as well as your other, stronger fingers. Then try C7, CEGB for a while, and finally C, CEGC. This takes loads of practice, but like you said, you will get there.
I think finding a teacher is an excellent idea. Even if you could take just one lesson a month, this would give you a goal and correct any “bad” habits before you get too far.
Wishing you the best, and more harp hugs,
Balfour (and Carol Lynn)That is wonderful news, Fiona! Just one “tip” about harp scores–rolled chords are very seldom indicated. In other words, a harpist rolls a chord UNLESS it is indicated NOT TO ROLL. As you know, this is not true in piano music. We are thrilled that you are enjoying Desi so much!
Warm Harp Hugs,
Balfour (and Carol Lynn)This is absolutely BEAUTIFUL, John! That is better than the original L&H design, in my humble opinion. It seems to have elements in common with their new Style 4 design.
More hugs,
Balfour and Carol LynnJohn, thanks for that information and nice photo! That explains a lot. I had no idea how they did it. Now, you can be very artistic with yours!
Have a great day,
Balfour (and Carol Lynn)John, I’m not sure how L&H does their soundboard artwork. On my Camac Atlantide Prestige, it is hand-painted. It looks like there may be some gold leaf, but there are a lot of paint products which can simulate that same look. Maybe L&H would let you know?
Harp Hugs,
Balfour (and Carol Lynn)It’s looking good, John! When you get to your final coat of finish, I would suggest rubbing it down with some very fine, dry, steel wool, either 00 or 000. This will make a nice satin, or flat, hand-rubbed finish. I always follow that thorough rubbing down with adding a nice coat of finishing wax, like Minwax, and then polish it very much with a nice dry cotton cloth. That way, the ripples will not be obvious. Most solid wood soundboards show some ripple, including my very fine grand piano, so do not be too hard on yourself. By the way, I loved the piano improvisation background music in your video!
Also, when you make the rub moldings, be sure to round-over all the edges that a harpist will touch or rub against while playing the harp. We “hug” the harp to play it. There should be no sharp corners anywhere!
Happy finishing, and more harp hugs,
Balfour (and Carol Lynn)We are on a family trip right now, without a harp. My emery board is working great! I have access to a very-well-tuned piano, so I am very happy.
Harp Hugs everybody,
Balfour (and Carol Lynn)
