Any low-medium tension lever harps that aren’t bright?

[Tara Schoepke]

I just returned from the Somerset Harp Festival and tried a lot of harps. I had experience with only my 29-string Stoney End Lorraine prior to this, which I now know is a very low-tension harp.

I like a warmer sound. The lighter-tension harps I tried all sounded so bright and tinny. Lots of nice-sounding higher-tension harps, but my hands were hurting afterwards.

My Lorraine is not bright, so I know that one at least exists, but it seems to be uncommon.

Does anyone know of any lever harps that are warmer but not high tension? It doesn’t have to be super low like the Lorraine, but not too close to pedal tension. I’m looking for 34 strings.

Thank you.

• This topic was modified 9 months ago by Tara Schoepke.

[Gregg Bailey]

Hi, Tara,

I have a large collection of lever harps; among them, I have a Dusty Strings Ravenna 34 in the optional lever gut stringing, a Rees (Harpsicle) Brilliant 34 in walnut, and a Rees Aberdeen Meadows 36 in the optional lower A-to-A stringing instead of C-to-C. I would recommend any of these for someone with your requests, though I’m not sure how much brightness bothers you. My Ravenna in lever gut is definitely warmer sounding than the standard nylon stringing but still has a fair amount of brightness, but I find the sound quite beautiful. I absolutely love my Rees Brilliant 34 in walnut, as it’s super-lightweight (only 13.9 lbs!!), yet it has a tone that is both warm and clear at the same time. My Aberdeen 36 in the optional lower stringing is much less bright than the higher C-C stringing and is the least bright of the three. In fact, Garen Rees and I agree that the A-A version sounds somewhat like a pedal harp in tone color but without the high string tension! And the tension is a bit lower in the A-A stringing than in the C-C stringing.

There’s also the Rees Mariposa 34, but I’ve not tried one. However, I imagine that it’s probably as bright as their Aberdeen 36 in the C-C stringing.

I hope this helps!

-Gregg

[Tara Schoepke]

Hi Gregg!

Thank you so much for the suggestions. I feel hopeful. I was starting to feel like a lightweight (haha) and since my hands are not in the greatest shape, was worried about trying to get used to a higher-tension harp. I will definitely take a look at these harps. Thank you for the details on the A-A vs C-C stringing as well. Very helpful!

— Tara

[Gregg Bailey]

Hi, Tara,

I’m glad I could help! Something tells me you would like the Rees Aberdeen Meadows model in A-A stringing, especially if you don’t mind the size and weight of the harp (mine weighs 23.3 lbs, but I ordered mine in a combination of walnut and cherry woods, which are both lighter in weight than maple). I also really like having the two extra-low strings in the bass end! If you end up seriously considering that model, I would highly recommend upgrading to Camac levers, which is what I did. I will warn you, though, that the pretty, shiny bass wires tend to tarnish rather quickly, at least where I live.

Let us know what you decide! And if you have any more questions, I’m happy to help if I can! Maybe others on this forum will offer additional suggestions of other models, as well.

-Gregg

[Tara Schoepke]

Thanks, Gregg.

That brings up more questions!

The Rees harps have their own proprietary levers, don’t they? If so, what do you think of them, and are they willing to put Camac levers on them, and at what cost? I just messaged them about the Mariposa and the Meadows harps, but I just re-read your message and had no idea they have a 34-string Harpsicle.

What are your thoughts on that one? I’ve decided I definitely don’t want to try to get used to high tension…Getting old…

Thanks!
Tara

[Gregg Bailey]

Hi, Tara,

Yes, Rees Harps uses Rees levers on all the harps they make, but they offer the option to upgrade to Camac levers on their concert harp line. I don’t know whether or not they would offer to do that on the Harpsicle line, but I’ve never asked. The upgrade to Camac levers would probably be something like $15 per lever, so, multiplied times 34 levers would be around $510 extra. The Rees levers are fine, but Camac levers are worth the extra charge, IMHO. They’re smoother in operation and sound a bit clearer and less levered when engaged. Also, the Rees levers move each string farther out of the plane of strings than the Camac levers do.

I love my Brilliant Harpsicle 34, as it’s so ridiculously light for such a large solid-wood floor harp (just under 14 lbs in walnut)! However, it’s definitely brighter in tone than my Aberdeen 36 in A-A stringing, but I like the tone of both. The string spacing is definitely a little narrower on the Brilliant, however.

I hope this helps!

-Gregg

[Gregg Bailey]

By the way, on all my Rees and Harpsicle harps that have Rees levers, I always request the red and blue lever jewels on the C and F levers, and I request them on both sides of the lever handle. The jewels come standard on their concert harps (only on the tops of the handles, though), but they have to be requested on the Harpsicle-line models. It’s so much harder to identify the levers quickly without the jewels! The Camac levers come with red and blue bands on the C and F levers by default.

One more thing I just thought of–if you were to get a Brilliant, you would have to get used to tuning on the lever side of the harp, as they use lightweight zither pins that don’t go through the neck instead of the usual “through” harp pins. I just tune standing at the column end so that I can still use my right hand and turn the pins the same direction I’m used to.

-Gregg

[Gregg Bailey]

Just to clarify, they use the normal “through” harp tuning pins on their concert line harps. It’s just the Harpsicle line that they use the zither pins instead.

-Gregg

[Tara Schoepke]

Ha, funny you should mention zither pins. My harp has those, so I would have to get used to tuning on the “normal” side. The strings are also wound in the reverse direction!

So you can request the jeweling on both sides? That would be great. My loveland levers are all black, and I’ve had to resort to rubber things to help me see the levers.

After all you’ve said, would you have any comments on which of these harps has the lightest tension? I’m going to a local place that has just regular Harpsicles, and I plan to ask Rees how your recommended models compare to them in terms of tension, but always good to have another opinion. I think their idea of medium and low may be different than mine!

I wonder if it’s a crazy idea to see if anyone lives locally who has these models so I can try before buying. Such a big investment, buying without playing makes me nervous.

Thanks again!

[Gregg Bailey]

It would be great if you could try a Brilliant in walnut like mine to see if the sparkly tone is too bright for your ears or not. If you were to like the tone, the feel of the harp probably would be quite similar to what you’re already used to. Walnut has the warmest sound of all the woods they offer. I suspect, however, that you would maybe prefer the duller tone of the much more massive Aberdeen 36 in the lower A-A stringing, but I could be wrong.

I compared the tension of my Brilliant to the tension of my Aberdeen in A-A stringing yesterday for you. I was expecting the Brilliant to feel considerably lighter in tension, but it only felt maybe slightly so. To me, they’re both close to medium tension, though the Brilliant might be described as medium-low. Keep in mind, if you try a small Harpsicle model (Harpsicle, Sharpsicle, Flatsicle, Fullsicle), the tension is much lower on those than on the Brilliant Harpsicle, and the spacing is even narrower on the small models. Here is how I would rate the relative tension of the various Rees/Harpsicle models, from lowest tension to highest:

1. Lap ‘sicles 26 strings and Morgan Meghan 27 (lowest tension)

2. Grand Harpsicle 33 strings (slightly higher tension but still quite low)

3. Brilliant Harpsicle 34, Shaylee Meadows 30, Mariposa 34 (I’ve not actually tried a Shaylee Meadows or Mariposa, but they’re probably all comparable in tension; medium-low)

4. Aberdeen Meadows 36 in the optional lower A-A stringing

5. Aberdeen Meadows 36 in the default C-C stringing, medium tension (haven’t actually tried)

Just a reminder that the spacing of the Brilliant is a little narrower than on the Aberdeen.

Be sure to mention my name to Rees Harps if you haven’t already, as I’m one of their biggest customers!

I see that Stoney End makes a 34-string model (“Marion”), but they say it has higher tension than the other models.

My Dusty Strings Boulevard 34 (pedal tension) has Loveland levers, though they’re marked with red and blue on the sides of the C and F ones. Yes, Rees Harps can add jewels on both sides of the Rees or Truitt lever handles free-of-charge.

What area do you live in? Probably nowhere near me; I’m in West Texas. I’m impressed that you live somewhere that has a local Harpsicle dealer; the closest harp store to me that I’m aware of is several hours away near Houston!

-Gregg

[balfour-knight]

Great posts here, Gregg! I only have my Dusty FH36S now, along with my pedal harp, so I can’t really contribute much here to help Tara. I am old, too, with arthritis problems, but I still prefer medium to high tension, since I am used to it. My two harps have such loud projection and resonance, even when just using a light touch, it doesn’t really bother my hands. Playing piano is harder on my fingers, from the impact when striking the keys. Hope you can try some harps before you buy, though. Every harp is different, played by different harpists, all of whom have various opinions, ha, ha!

Harp Hugs,
Balfour

[Tara Schoepke]

Wow, Gregg, thanks so much for taking the time to “rank” the harps for me. That is really helpful, because I’m thinking of going to my local used instrument store this weekend and playing whatever harps they have. Knowing that Sharpsicles are LOW will provide some point of reference.

I live in the Metro DC area.

I tried the Marion out, beautiful harp. Lovely warm sound. Stoney End really knows how to warm up their harps. But it just felt tight.

This store has a used Crescendo, new Ravenna, used Pilgrim Clarsach in nylon, and new Sharpsicle. They also have used Troubadours III/IV, but I know that’s pedal harp tension. The Crescendo was exposed to damp conditions in the past, and although Rick Kemper fixed it up and it’s supposedly in good condition, I’m suspicious of the low price. They even have a Steen, but it’s only partially levered

The higher-level Rees’s remain elusive. There may be some festival in NC in the fall, trying to find out if there is, and if they will be there as they have been in the past.

Thanks for all of your help!

[balfour-knight]

Tara, there is supposed to be a Harp Gathering in Black Mountain, NC on Sept. 27–29. Check their website for more information. Also, since you live in the Washington, D. C. area, you could easily go to the Virginia Harp Center. Check their website to see what new and used harps they have, and make sure you have an appointment before you go!

Harp Hugs,
Balfour

[Gregg Bailey]

Good suggestions, Balfour!

Tara, I should point out that if you try a Sharpsicle, it won’t really tell you very much about what a Brilliant Harpsicle would be like to play, as, not only is the string tension quite a bit lower on the Sharpsicle, but the string spacing is narrower, as well. Also, since the Brilliant has a more proper soundbox shape that gets wider as you go down the harp into the bass, it has a much fuller sound than a Sharpsicle. The small lap Harpsicle models are designed to be extremely lightweight and portable, which is why they have a slender, shallow “box” shape to the soundbox with parallel sides.

The string spacing is the most narrow on the small Harpsicles, then the Brilliant spacing is a little wider, and the large concert models like the Aberdeen have the widest spacing.

If you go to that harp store this weekend, I’ll be curious to know what you think about the Crescendo and Ravenna.

Speaking of Rick Kemper, I think he owns Sligo Harps. Have you talked with him about his 34-string Luchair model? I know nothing about how it would sound.

-Gregg

[balfour-knight]

I loved the Ravenna 34 that I owned for about five years before I found my FH36S. I wished for Camac levers on the Ravenna back then, instead of the usual Lovelands, and now they can install Camacs for you on a Ravenna. They are well worth the cost, in my opinion! Thanks, Gregg!

Harp Hugs,
Balfour

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