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I just discovered that the Camac Korrigan has now been replaced by a new model, the Lancelot, which is very similar but improved, and it now uses better, heavier bass wires to better match the pedal gut higher up. They’ve made other improvements, as well.
-Gregg
I also have a Troubadour V (2006) which sounds GREAT with the levers all down (not so great with levers engaged), but I don’t know how the sound compares to a VI. The V was designed to only have 5 gut strings (5E thru 5A) and to use pedal nylon from 4F up, so that’s how I have it strung. My V honestly is the best-sounding lever harp I have, and I have many. I also have a Prelude 40, though the sound is paradoxically not as big as my Troub V.
-Gregg
Dylan,
I have a Dusty Strings Boulevard (pedal tension, 34 strings), and you would perhaps like this model. It rings more than the Troubadour, possibly due to the bass wires being lever-gauge, but the main playing range uses pedal strings.
Also, have you looked into MariniMade harps? I don’t know what their string tension tends to be, but they make very fine lever harps.
What about a Salvi Ana (40 strings), Camac Mademoiselle (40 strings), or Camac Korrigan (38 strings)? All of those use pedal stringing, though the Camacs still use lever wires in the bass end. I also have a Salvi Gaia (38 strings), which is pedal stringing, though I’ve been disappointed in how the bass wires sound, I think due to the fact that they’re too short on that model.
I agree, however, that a large Pratt model might best fit what you’re looking for if you can get him to actually make one for you.
Let us know what you decide!
-Gregg
I’ve been in contact with John Pratt several times over the last couple of years about the possibility of his making me one of his little “Sprite” harps (22 strings). He always seemed willing; however, he would never follow up with me. I know he had serious health problems awhile back which affected his eyes among other things, though I think he largely bounced back from most of that. His website went defunct a couple of years ago when he didn’t renew the contract with the domain or something; I think he was struggling financially. I do have his phone numbers. If anyone REALLY wants a harp from him, you may be able to hound him to get it done, but I just got tired of trying three different times over the span of more than a year, and he would always promise to do some price-checking and then never follow-up, so I just gave up.
-Gregg
How fun! The 6/9 means add-6 and add-9 to the Ab major chord, which is basically Ab major pentatonic. For this, you would set your pedals to Ab, Bb, C-nat, D#, Eb, F-nat, G#, or in pedal order from left to right, it would be D#, C-nat, Bb, Eb, F-nat, G#, Ab. The pentatonic gliss is the most idiomatic sound the harp can make!
Hope this helps!
-Gregg
Hi, Mike,
I live in West Texas. Where in TX is this harp? I’m not an expert in pedal harps but would be curious to see this harp if it’s not too far away!
-Gregg
Good suggestions, Balfour!
Tara, I should point out that if you try a Sharpsicle, it won’t really tell you very much about what a Brilliant Harpsicle would be like to play, as, not only is the string tension quite a bit lower on the Sharpsicle, but the string spacing is narrower, as well. Also, since the Brilliant has a more proper soundbox shape that gets wider as you go down the harp into the bass, it has a much fuller sound than a Sharpsicle. The small lap Harpsicle models are designed to be extremely lightweight and portable, which is why they have a slender, shallow “box” shape to the soundbox with parallel sides.
The string spacing is the most narrow on the small Harpsicles, then the Brilliant spacing is a little wider, and the large concert models like the Aberdeen have the widest spacing.
If you go to that harp store this weekend, I’ll be curious to know what you think about the Crescendo and Ravenna.
Speaking of Rick Kemper, I think he owns Sligo Harps. Have you talked with him about his 34-string Luchair model? I know nothing about how it would sound.
-Gregg
It would be great if you could try a Brilliant in walnut like mine to see if the sparkly tone is too bright for your ears or not. If you were to like the tone, the feel of the harp probably would be quite similar to what you’re already used to. Walnut has the warmest sound of all the woods they offer. I suspect, however, that you would maybe prefer the duller tone of the much more massive Aberdeen 36 in the lower A-A stringing, but I could be wrong.
I compared the tension of my Brilliant to the tension of my Aberdeen in A-A stringing yesterday for you. I was expecting the Brilliant to feel considerably lighter in tension, but it only felt maybe slightly so. To me, they’re both close to medium tension, though the Brilliant might be described as medium-low. Keep in mind, if you try a small Harpsicle model (Harpsicle, Sharpsicle, Flatsicle, Fullsicle), the tension is much lower on those than on the Brilliant Harpsicle, and the spacing is even narrower on the small models. Here is how I would rate the relative tension of the various Rees/Harpsicle models, from lowest tension to highest:
1. Lap ‘sicles 26 strings and Morgan Meghan 27 (lowest tension)
2. Grand Harpsicle 33 strings (slightly higher tension but still quite low)
3. Brilliant Harpsicle 34, Shaylee Meadows 30, Mariposa 34 (I’ve not actually tried a Shaylee Meadows or Mariposa, but they’re probably all comparable in tension; medium-low)
4. Aberdeen Meadows 36 in the optional lower A-A stringing
5. Aberdeen Meadows 36 in the default C-C stringing, medium tension (haven’t actually tried)
Just a reminder that the spacing of the Brilliant is a little narrower than on the Aberdeen.
Be sure to mention my name to Rees Harps if you haven’t already, as I’m one of their biggest customers!
I see that Stoney End makes a 34-string model (“Marion”), but they say it has higher tension than the other models.
My Dusty Strings Boulevard 34 (pedal tension) has Loveland levers, though they’re marked with red and blue on the sides of the C and F ones. Yes, Rees Harps can add jewels on both sides of the Rees or Truitt lever handles free-of-charge.
What area do you live in? Probably nowhere near me; I’m in West Texas. I’m impressed that you live somewhere that has a local Harpsicle dealer; the closest harp store to me that I’m aware of is several hours away near Houston!
-Gregg
Just to clarify, they use the normal “through” harp tuning pins on their concert line harps. It’s just the Harpsicle line that they use the zither pins instead.
-Gregg
By the way, on all my Rees and Harpsicle harps that have Rees levers, I always request the red and blue lever jewels on the C and F levers, and I request them on both sides of the lever handle. The jewels come standard on their concert harps (only on the tops of the handles, though), but they have to be requested on the Harpsicle-line models. It’s so much harder to identify the levers quickly without the jewels! The Camac levers come with red and blue bands on the C and F levers by default.
One more thing I just thought of–if you were to get a Brilliant, you would have to get used to tuning on the lever side of the harp, as they use lightweight zither pins that don’t go through the neck instead of the usual “through” harp pins. I just tune standing at the column end so that I can still use my right hand and turn the pins the same direction I’m used to.
-Gregg
Hi, Tara,
Yes, Rees Harps uses Rees levers on all the harps they make, but they offer the option to upgrade to Camac levers on their concert harp line. I don’t know whether or not they would offer to do that on the Harpsicle line, but I’ve never asked. The upgrade to Camac levers would probably be something like $15 per lever, so, multiplied times 34 levers would be around $510 extra. The Rees levers are fine, but Camac levers are worth the extra charge, IMHO. They’re smoother in operation and sound a bit clearer and less levered when engaged. Also, the Rees levers move each string farther out of the plane of strings than the Camac levers do.
I love my Brilliant Harpsicle 34, as it’s so ridiculously light for such a large solid-wood floor harp (just under 14 lbs in walnut)! However, it’s definitely brighter in tone than my Aberdeen 36 in A-A stringing, but I like the tone of both. The string spacing is definitely a little narrower on the Brilliant, however.
I hope this helps!
-Gregg
Hi, Tara,
I’m glad I could help! Something tells me you would like the Rees Aberdeen Meadows model in A-A stringing, especially if you don’t mind the size and weight of the harp (mine weighs 23.3 lbs, but I ordered mine in a combination of walnut and cherry woods, which are both lighter in weight than maple). I also really like having the two extra-low strings in the bass end! If you end up seriously considering that model, I would highly recommend upgrading to Camac levers, which is what I did. I will warn you, though, that the pretty, shiny bass wires tend to tarnish rather quickly, at least where I live.
Let us know what you decide! And if you have any more questions, I’m happy to help if I can! Maybe others on this forum will offer additional suggestions of other models, as well.
-Gregg
Hi, Tara,
I have a large collection of lever harps; among them, I have a Dusty Strings Ravenna 34 in the optional lever gut stringing, a Rees (Harpsicle) Brilliant 34 in walnut, and a Rees Aberdeen Meadows 36 in the optional lower A-to-A stringing instead of C-to-C. I would recommend any of these for someone with your requests, though I’m not sure how much brightness bothers you. My Ravenna in lever gut is definitely warmer sounding than the standard nylon stringing but still has a fair amount of brightness, but I find the sound quite beautiful. I absolutely love my Rees Brilliant 34 in walnut, as it’s super-lightweight (only 13.9 lbs!!), yet it has a tone that is both warm and clear at the same time. My Aberdeen 36 in the optional lower stringing is much less bright than the higher C-C stringing and is the least bright of the three. In fact, Garen Rees and I agree that the A-A version sounds somewhat like a pedal harp in tone color but without the high string tension! And the tension is a bit lower in the A-A stringing than in the C-C stringing.
There’s also the Rees Mariposa 34, but I’ve not tried one. However, I imagine that it’s probably as bright as their Aberdeen 36 in the C-C stringing.
I hope this helps!
-Gregg
Thanks, Balfour! How awful that there was such a problem with Bow Brand years ago; I’m glad they seem to have solved it!
-Gregg
