Brenda Dodd

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Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)
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  • in reply to: Building a Small Harp #295445
    Brenda Dodd
    Participant

    Thanks, Talfryn. Yes, it is the first build — but I suspect it will not be the last!
    No, I had not heard about starting a few notes below and slowly bringing it up to pitch. I had only heard about balancing the tension along the neck and not fully tightening one at a time from one end. Thanks for the hint!

    in reply to: Building a Small Harp #295437
    Brenda Dodd
    Participant

    Thank you!
    The range is E to E — just realized the string table does not specify the octave! I am assuming E3 – E6.

    in reply to: Building a Small Harp #295424
    Brenda Dodd
    Participant

    Ready for strings!

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    in reply to: Building a Small Harp #291018
    Brenda Dodd
    Participant

    Thanks for the tip, Biagio!

    in reply to: Building a Small Harp #290882
    Brenda Dodd
    Participant

    Question: why is the stringer usually made out of maple? I have cherry scraps, but no maple. Will cherry work?

    in reply to: Building a Small Harp #290424
    Brenda Dodd
    Participant

    Purple Heartwood soundbox and cherry pillar (rough sanded), luan back (rough cut)

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    in reply to: Building a Small Harp #290423
    Brenda Dodd
    Participant

    Thank you for all the help. I finally decided to go with solid cherry reinforced with carbon fiber tape for the neck. That is what I think I can do best with considering my available wood, tools, and woodworking experience. I am using T88 epoxy that was recommended to me at a woodworking store — hope it is as good as advertised! If it doesn’t work, then I’ll know better next time! I am having a blast and am delighted to find what I can do with simple tools — a circular saw, a reciprocating saw, and a small sander.

    in reply to: Building a Small Harp #289749
    Brenda Dodd
    Participant

    Biago, I also am trying to build a Waldorf 22. I do not want to use splines — I do not understand how to do that. The two 3/4″ pieces laminated together sounds good to me. Do I have to cut the two pieces at different angles so the grains go different directions? Do I laminate them together with regular carpenter’s glue recommended for the splines, or the epoxy that is used on the neck and pillar? My local supplier does not have 3/4 stock of hardwood. would 1″ work? It seems the top of the sound board is 4-5″ wide, so it seems that 1″ x 4 pieces (neck and knee block) would be 4 inches (nominal, actually less) and should work. Or I could use a laminated neck and a solid 1″ knee block…

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)